The rules for Bourbon production are relatively simple.

Bourbon must be produced in the United States, although not necessarily in Kentucky. The mash must be produced of at least 51% corn. The spirit must be aged in a new charred oak barrel and must enter the barrel at no more than 125 proof (62.5% ABV). During bottling the bourbon must be at least 80 proof. Water is the only additive permitted during distilling. Water reduces ABV.

The aging of any bourbon is at the discretion of the distiller, except for those labeled bottled-in-bond. Bottled-in-Bond whiskey is required to be aged for four years. Any bourbon aged for a minimum of two years may be labeled ‘Straight Bourbon’.

There is no requirement that the spirit be aged in an American Oak barrel. However, many distillers prefer American oak for both its quality and for the flavors it imparts. Interestingly, the law only requires that the container in which the bourbon is aged must be new charred oak. The ‘container’, interestingly, does not need to be a barrel. Tradition favors the ’round’ container.

Charring imparts both color and flavor.

You will find bourbon produced in virtually every state. Hawaiian, the last state to consider bourbon production, has distillers that produce a ‘bourbon-style’ spirit from locally grown corn, and in some instances partner with mainland distillers to distill bourbon from Hawaiian corn. A spirit can only be labeled Kentucky Bourbon if it is produced within Kentucky.

Which brings us to High Wire Distilling of Charleston, SC.

Founded in 2013 by the husband-and-wife team of Scott Blackwell and Ann Marshall, the distillery began in a cramped location off Upper King Street and recently relocated to a much larger space on Huger Street.

Blackwell, trained as baker at the Culinary Institute of America, created ran, and ultimately sold a North Carolina baking business to General Mills. The couple relocated to Charleston, SC with intentions of opening a new business. Scott was interested in craft brewing, but Ann believed that craft distilling filled a gap in the Lowcountry market. Thus, named for their joint love of vaudeville and circus, High Wire Distilling was formed.

High Wire distills many spirits, including a unique Amaro. However, the focus of this post is their Jimmy Red Corn Straight Bourbon.

Sourced from James Island, a South Carolina sea island, much of which is within Charleston city limits, Jimmy Red corn was near extinction as the 21^st century began. However, a revival effort spearheaded by James Beard Award winning chef Sean Brock and Anson Mills, a producer of heirloom grains, was extraordinarily successful. They secured the two remaining cobbs of Jimmy Red, created a partnership with The University of South Carolina to save the grain.

Within a year of establishing High Wire, the owners acquired Jimmy Red seeds, formed a partnership with Clemson University, and by 2017 was harvesting 250,000 pounds of this unique corn.

High Wire’s limited Jimmy Red production is their signature spirit. Nutty and sweet, there is a creamy mouthfeel to the bourbon that originates from the very high oil cap that is then returned to the mash. The bourbon is aged for two years.

It is expensive, around $100 per bottle. High Wire is developing a national following. It is available in the Northeast and in states surrounding South Carolina. Many states where the Jimmy Red is available, like New York, can ship to many others.

It is bourbon that should be included in the collection of those who enjoy the spirit. It is always part of our collection.

If you find yourself in Charleston, be sure to stop by High Wire for a tour. And, enjoy the tasting room/bar. The staff is friendly and the spirits, beyond the Jimmy Red, interesting.

Greg Brewer is enthusiastic. He is enthusiastic about Brew-Clifton, the winery he founded in 1996, and about Santa Barbara, where Brewer-Clifton is located.

Brewer, a California native, began his professional relationship with Santa Barbara as a French instructor at the local branch of the University of California. At least that’s the legend. Truth is that Brewer has been making wine in the region since the early 1990s. After stints as a ‘cellar rat’ and an assistant winemaker, he and Steve Clifton founded their own brand in 1996. Sta. Rita Hills was not formally recognized as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) until 2001, but Clifton and Brewer knew that the coastal influenced terroir would be ideal for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

Twenty-five years after the founding of Brewer-Clifton, and after nearly three decades in the wine industry, Greg Brewer was recognized by Wine Enthusiast Magazine as a “Winemaking Star”. He is the first Santa Barbara winemaker to be recognized as a ‘Star’.

In May 2017 Jackson Family Wines acquired Brewer-Clifton. Brewer continues as the winemaker.

The Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noirs are rich and flavorful, but the focus of this post is the Diatom Chardonnay.

Launched in 2005 and named for the fossilized plankton that is synonymous with Santa Barbara, this 100% Chardonnay is aged in stainless steel and seeks to highlight the grape rather than the winemaking process. They ferment at low temperatures and limit malolactic fermentation to focus on what the winery calls “the transparent nature of the Chardonnay”.

The wine is medium bodied and with elements of tropical fruit that extends from the nose through the medium finish. Bright acidity makes this ideal to simply sip or as an accompaniment to soft cheese and sliced appetizer meats.

The 2020 and 2021 versions of the Diatom earned almost universal scores in the mid-90s, the 2022 is also excellent. Priced at the low to mid-$20s, this Chardonnay is distributed nationally.

We first tasted the Brewer-Clifton Diatom Chardonnay 2021 at last year’s Fort Walton Beaches Food and Wine Festival. It was clear from Greg Brewer’s enthusiastic description that he loves this wine. You will as well.

Sorry about the hiatus. A pandemic takes some of the blame, but a Civil War focused research project also consumed time that would otherwise have been allocated to sharing thoughts on wine and spirits. The Civil War project continues, but my ability to budget time has improved. The pandemic has become ‘manageable’ as vaccines and infections move us into a hybrid ‘herd immunity’. Moreover, Joy and I have had the opportunity to taste many wines and spirits worth sharing.

I am going to streamline my posting. Rather than detailed posts once a week, I will share ‘reflections’ on products more regularly.

Two for today.

Ironically, my most recent post (although, not all that recent), recommended that you track down the Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard 2018 Chardonnay. I renew this blog with a recommendation that you track down the 2021 Katherine’s Chardonnay.

If you like the creamy California style Chard with hints of vanilla and sufficient body to work with virtually any fish, pork, or fowl, then this is your wine. Available everywhere for about $20.

We had the opportunity to meet Cambria winemaker Jill Russell at the 2022 South Walton Beaches Wine & Food Festival. Her youthful appearance belies her years of training and experience. Educated at Cal San Luis Obispo, with vintages in Australia and France, winemaking for years with both Stephen Dooley (in the Edna Valley) and Paul Lato (of Pinot Noir and Santa Barbara), she has been the winemaker at Cambria since 2017.

Russell’s enthusiasm for Cambria and for the wines of Santa Barbara is infectious. She shared the stage with Greg Brewer (of Brewer-Clifton) and together they told a compelling tale of a region deserving of the accolades earned by its over 200 wineries.

Cambria’s Katherine’s Chardonnay, however, is not her only wine worth seeking. The 2021 Tepusquet Vineyard Viognier is outstanding. This 100% Viognier is floral on the nose with both peach and pear on the palate. It has an excellent finish and would be wonderful with fish, pork, or fowl. It is also a wonderful way to start an evening. Try it with a hardy cheese. Limited production, but nationwide distribution. Sells for around $27.

A bourbon.

A couple of years ago, Hirsch Horizon had a limited footprint. You could find in larger markets only. Not today. Hirsch is available virtually everywhere.

Originated in Pennsylvania’s Schaefferstown Distillery (better known today as Michter’s), the first 400-barrel batch was ultimately bottled by Julien Van Winkle III as A.H. Hirsch Reserve. A 1991 bottling of that spirit will cost you more than $4,000.

Fortunately, you can Hirsch Horizon for approximately $40. It is now distilled in Indiana and aged/bottled in Bardstown, Kentucky.

Golden color you will find hints of honey and butter on the nose, and spice laced with pleasant hints of leather on the palate. Lingering finish on this easy to enjoy bourbon.

Nice to be back on-line.

I have often mentioned Gruet sparkling wines, generally as an aside, in many posts and newsletter articles over the past many years. However, although it is one of our favorite sparkling producers, Gruet has never been the primary focus of any commentary.

Joy and I first encountered Gruet when visiting our friends Bill and Mary Vogel in Albuquerque, New Mexico. They had relocated to the warmer SW from the snowy and cold NE more than 20 years ago. On a tour of the sites during our first to the area, traveling from Albuquerque to Santa Fe through the Sandia Mountains, and as we passed a nondescript strip mall, I spotted a sign suggesting a winery. A short detour was in order.

The winery was Gruet, the space (for both tasting and winery) was confined, but the staff was friendly, and the sparkling wines were excellent. I shared our impressions with Steve Morrison of Sterling Cellars in New York. Gruet was soon in Sterling Cellar’s sparkling section, and soon after Gruet was a Sterling customer favorite.

For those of you who have not yet tried Gruet…you should. But first, let’s discuss how a French winemaker ends up in New Mexico?

This 275,000-case winery makes sparkling wine in New Mexico, but its origin is Bethon located in the heart of the French Champagne region. The late Gibert Gruet first made wine in 1967 on Bethon land given to him by his winemaker father. It was at Gruet et Fils that Gilbert’s son Laurent, now the winemaker at Gruet, learned the intricate ropes of méthode Champenoise.

European winemakers had started to buy land in California in the early 1980s following the Great Tasting of 1976 in which California wines bested some of the finest French offerings. Gilbert Gruet, who died in 1999, joined that Western exploration. However, Gilbert’s focus was New Mexico. The climate was excellent, and the soil was terrible (excellent for grapes that improve as they struggle to find nutrition). He purchased a vineyard near Truth and Consequences, a town located a couple of hours south of Albuquerque. Laurent and his sister Nathalie (now the company President) were given responsibility for the new venture. In 1989 they released their first sparkling wines. They started with 2,000 cases. Shortly thereafter Joy and I stumbled across their strip mall operation.

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the two primary grapes in Chardonnay thrive in the dry air of New Mexico. The climate is dry and windy. The nights are cool. Pests and rot are minimized. Hot days and chilly nights preserve the acidity that is critical that is critical to sparkling wines.

Gruet uses classic production Champagne methods. Secondary fermentation in the bottle and riddling to eliminate the dead yeast cells. Aging in bottles.

Gruet has expanded his vineyards, including acreage in the Sandia Mountains between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. They also source grapes from California and Washington state.

The key, says Laurent, is price. The sparkling wine market is very competitive. Simply put, “You cannot be too expensive…if you are too expensive, people will buy something else”. With entry level bottles selling for less than $20, you can find Gruet everywhere. And, despite growth they have not sacrificed quality. In 2011 The Wine Spectator listed Gruet’s NV Blanc de Noirs on its Top 100 List.

A couple of years ago (pre-Covid), Joy and I had the opportunity to talk with Laurent Gruet at The South Walton Beaches Wine and Food Festival. He was as approachable as are his wines. He introduced us to his newest style, NV Sauvage.

A Blanc de Blanc (white wine made from white grapes) is light in color, dry in style, and delicate in the mouth. The nose suggests a bright drink with just a touch of citrus. The flavor package offers both green apple and grapefruit. The finish is long. Decanter magazine noted that you may find “buttercream and hints of mushroom” while awarding it 90 points.

When you find Sauvage (unfortunately, not easily in South Carolina) also acquire some oysters or briny fish and enjoy the combination. You should find the Sauvage in the $20 range.

However, even if the limited production Sauvage is not readily available, you should find the full range of other Gruet sparklers virtually everywhere.  Their NV Brut Rosé is a particularly excellent value.

And should you find yourself in either Santa Fe or Albuquerque, Gruet has tasting rooms in both cities. They have clearly left the strip mall behind.

As the United States resumed wine importation following Prohibition, importers, distributors, shops, restaurants, and consumers primarily sought Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Italian wines were rarely considered. Italian wines generally offered little quality and earned little respect. Unlike French wines, there were no enforceable standards for Italian wines, there was little consistency, and there were virtually no exports. The U.S. viewed Italian wines through the lens of Italian Swiss Colony (vinifed in Sonoma, California in a 500,000 cistern), sweet Lambrusco, and Chianti notable largely for its straw covered bottle that was coveted as a candle holder.

In the mid-20^th century the Italian government began to establish rigorous standards for both wine production and quality. Once consistency was assured and the quality improved, Italian wines were aggressively marketed, and tourists touted the vineyards quality. Vintners Angelo Gaja and Pierro Antinori became ‘rock stars’ of the wine universe. Exports quickly grew. Tuscany was ‘discovered’ as a wine attraction comparable to its culture.

Tuscany is truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. The vistas are breathtaking, the history intriguing, the food wonderful, and today’s wines taste of a commitment to the region’s history, to it’s flavors, and to representing the extraordinary terroir.

The grape that defines Tuscany is Sangiovese. More than 60% of the vineyards are planted with the varietal. The region’s winemakers believe that Sangiovese was originally planted by the Etruscans as early as the 2^nd century, but it was only by the late 16^th century that it was both identified by its contemporary name, and as the literature of that period correctly suggested, with proper care the grape could produce a very fine wine.

Sangiovese is grown in Argentina and California, Australia, and Chile, but it is in Tuscany that it is king. Virtually every Tuscan red wine of consequence is produced from Sangiovese. Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, and of course, Brunello are all products of Sangiovese.

A Chianti must contain at least 80% Sangiovese with the distinction between Chianti and Chianti Riserva being the length of time the wine spends in barrel. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano must contain 70% Sangiovese to earn DOCG status. Rosso di Montalcino, often referred to as a ‘baby Brunello’, requires 100% Sangiovese, but is aged for only one year before release. The Rosso spends only six months in oak.

And then there is Brunello.

Brunello is to Sangiovese what Barolo is to Nebbiolo, First Growth Bordeaux to Cabernet and Merlot, and Burgundy to Pinot Noir.

Brunello’s standards were established in the 1860s, but the quality was not assured until 1980 with the DOCG approval. Brunello is also produced from 100% Sangiovese, and then must be aged for a minimum of two years in oak and another two years in bottle before release. A Brunello Riserva requires an additional year of bottle aging before it is released. Some winemakers choose to extend their Brunello’s stay in oak for a third year.

The Italian government, recognizing the export potential for wine, established quality standards for specific styles of wine with those bottles labeled as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) representing the highest quality. There are now more than 70 Italian wine styles that may be labeled DOCG.

That brings us to the recently released 2015 vintage…. referred to, by some reviewers, as ‘great’. As with many great vintages the 2015 Brunello (not the Riserva) is compared to those ‘great’ vintages that preceded it…1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2006, and 2010. All of them rated by reviewers like The Wine Spectator as mid to high 90s for the entire vintage.

It may be premature to rate the 2015 as one of the ‘great’ vintages. However, our experience with the 2015 Brunello has been uniformly pleasant.

A favorite is Caprili.

One of the earliest organized estates in Montalcino, Caprili was founded in 1965. At the time, there were then less than 20 estates in the region. There are now more than 200 Tuscan wine estates.

The Bartolommei family has been producing Caprili Tuscan wines through four generations, and have developed a reputation for consistent quality and excellent value. They produce roughly 60,000 bottles each vintage. Nearly 40,000 of those bottles are Brunello. The Caprili Brunello is aged for three years in oak.

The 2015, selling nationally for around $50, has been very well received. The Wine Spectator, James Suckling, and Vinous gave it a 95. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and the Wine Enthusiast awarded the 2015 a 93.

The critics agree that it was one of the finest wines of the vintage and is one of the best values. They extol its deep cherry and raspberry flavor package. We enjoyed the velvet mouthfeel of a wine with well-integrated tannin. The finish is lingering. It is a wine ready to drink now.

You are unlikely to find much 2015 Rossi di Montalcino. However, there are some excellent options for these less expensive ‘Baby Brunello’ from more recent vintages. The Rosso will generally be lighter and will offer slightly greater acidity in a balanced flavor package that is an excellent accompaniment to white sauce pastas, and meat and cheese starters.

You can find a 2016 Mocali Rosso di Montalcino for around $20. The 2018 Caparzo di Montalcino is another under $20 excellent option. Both wines can be found nationwide.

Jess Jackson was a man of many talents.

A California native and a product of the Great Depression, from an early age he worked to support his family, and then worked his way through law school (finishing when he was just 21) with jobs as widely varied as police officer and dock worker. He became a very successful real estate attorney and was a founding member of Decimus, a company that leased IBM mainframe computers to California corporations. In 1974, with then wife Jane Kendall Jackson, he purchased a pear and walnut orchard in Lakeport, California.

Lakeport, located in Lake County, is approximately 75 miles north of Napa, and 120 miles north of Jackson’s San Francisco home. The California wine industry had just begun to recovery from more than three decades of stagnation following the repeal of Prohibition, and in the early 1970s Lake County supported only 100 acres of wine grapes. However, Jackson was convinced that there was a likely market for higher quality grapes, and in response he ripped out the orchard and added to county’s hundred acres ‘premium’ Chardonnay (and a few other varieties).

Originally, Jackson intended to sell his grapes to wineries. However, by the early 1980s there was a glut of grapes available to winemakers, and rather than sell his ‘premium’ juice for less than production cost, Jackson decided to vinify his own wine. Although Jackson and Jane Kendall Jackson divorced in the early 1980s, the winery formed by that decision was and remains jointly named.

Jackson determined that he was best representative of his wine. He talked his way into the iconic Oyster Bar in New York’s Grand Central Station, and by the late 1980s Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay was a staple of virtually every wine shop and on virtually every restaurant list. It certainly helped that Nancy Reagan liked the Vintner’s Reserve and served it at the White House.

Jackson married fellow attorney Barbara Banke in 1984, and together they acquired an additional 25,000 California acres and planted 14,000 acres of grapes. They developed or purchased nearly two dozen wineries. All Jackson Family wines state the goal of sustainability. They rotate crop covers, compost, have developed programs of both water conservation and integrated pest management, and have maintained animal habitat corridors.

Jess Jackson died in 2011. However, his wine empire, now managed by his late wife and some of his five children, has now expanded to more than 50,000 acres in the U.S. alone, forty wineries, and sells six million cases each year. They have interests in wineries and vineyards in Bordeaux, Tuscany, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.

One of those forty U.S. wineries is Cambria, located in the Santa Barbara wine country, and managed by Jackson and Banke’s daughters, Julia and Kate. Specifically, we are focus on the 2018 Katherine’s Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay.

The Santa Maria Valley is an AVA of Santa Barbara. The region is noted for an ‘ever present fog’ and diverse soils that are ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They also grow Viognier and Syrah in the region.

We really like this wine. Joy and I especially like it when it is available for less than $15 at Costco.

Consistently good, the 2018 Katherine’s Vineyard was rated 92 points by the Wine Spectator, who referred to it as “Lithe and powerful, featuring a vibrant core of apple and peach pastry flavors, with dried tropical fruit accents”. If you appreciate the buttery characteristics of California chards, then you will enjoy this wine.

Drink it young.

Available nationally.

There is very little margin for making a profit in the wine business.

Personal experience importing excellent Slovenian wines nearly 20 years ago still conjures uneasy memories of the process. Nevertheless, the opportunity was both instructive and humbling. I marvel at those who continue to undertake those risks.

Importing, distribution, and sales of wine and spirits is difficult in the best of circumstances. When the industry faces both a pandemic and extraordinary tariffs the task becomes virtually impossible. Welcome to 2020-21.

Tariffs are by their nature punitive. They are generally imposed as a punishment for a nation’s economic decisions that create an imbalance in the world of international trade. They may also be imposed for the purpose of protecting a domestic industry against nations who could flood a nation’s domestic market with inexpensively produced items or materials. For example, Air Jordan’s (almost always the example) cost approximately $16 to produce (materials and labor). A pair can cost you over $150 at Foot Locker. Nike and Foot Locker are responsible for some of the difference, but the bulk of that $134 difference is tariffs. The tariffs are designed to protect American shoemakers (good luck finding one), and to discourage the use of unfair or abusive labor practices. How does this apply to wine?

The United States imports many bottles and much bulk wine and spirits. The United States also exports many bottles of wines and spirits. There are numerous international organizations whose function is to act as trade arbiters seeking balance and fairness amongst the world’s trading partners.

Sometimes people cheat.

In 2004 France provided subsidies and a competitive advantage to the aircraft manufacturer Airbus. The World Trade Organization determined that the subsidies provided Airbus an unfair advantage. The U.S. imposed tariffs following the 2004 incident, and then renewed them in October of 2019. Interestingly, those tariffs imposed a 25% duty on the wines of France, Spain, and Germany with an ABV under 14%. In early January, wines from those three countries with ABV 14% and higher will be subject to the same tariff.

Tariffs on wine exports impact a broader portion of a nation’s population than does aircraft manufacture. Effectively, the goal of tariffs is to “hit them where it hurts”.

The Europeans responding by imposing duties on orange juice and, interestingly, ketchup.

The impact of the tariff on French wine imports to the U.S. has been dramatic…a 37% decline in the first nine months of 2020. The impact is largely on this side of the Atlantic. More on this later.

The most recent round of tariffs was particularly damaging. They were imposed without warning, and they carried no exemption for ‘goods on the water’. Importers will have to pay increased tariffs when the wines arrive in port. Importers will increase the price of those wines sold to distributors; distributors will increase the price of those wines to retailers, bars, and restaurants; those entities will increase the price to you. Ultimately, all tariffs are paid by the consumer. Tariffs are reflected in the price of your shoes, your airline ticket, and your wine. Economists suggest that for every dollar of tariff the price of a product is increased by $4 to the U.S. consumer. Smaller concerns, such as Grassroots Wine of Charleston, which imports from France, Spain, and Germany will pay $12,000 in additional tariffs, while New York’s Vintus, already suffering from a 40% reduction in sales, will pay an additional $1.3 million on products ordered last year. Expect your favorite French, Spanish and German wines to be more expensive as 2021 dawns.

Earlier wine tariffs were in part absorbed by importers and distributors to protect their markets. However, even with the effort to manage the impact, the damage to the U.S. restaurant industry has been significant.

Restaurateurs rely on the markup charged for lower cost imports to compensate for the very small margin on food. The tariffs have seriously affected an industry already as risk as a result of the pandemic. Some estimates suggest that more than 100,000 restaurants have closed in the past ten months. The increasing cost of wine will likely close still more.

Reuters reports that Ben Aneff of New York’s Tribeca Wine Merchants, said that “the tariffs on European wines were expected to cost some $10 billion in lost revenue and 78,000 job losses, hitting the nation’s 47,000 wine retailers and more than 6,500 importers and distributors disproportionately hard”. Additionally, states and localities will lose $100 million in taxes on alcohol sales.

The impact on European producers has been less than in the United States. They have simply shifted their sales emphasis to other markets…notably Asia. Economists suggest that the monetary impact will be four times greater in the U.S. than in Europe.

It is likely that the new administration will act to roll back the tariffs. However, it will not happen immediately. President Biden’s nominee for U.S. trade Representative, Katherine Tai is “well-versed in the issues that tariffs on wine cause businesses in the United States”. And tariffs are reviewed regularly. The wine tariffs are due for review in mid-February. Unfortunately, Tai may not have been confirmed by the Senate by that time. With so many issues facing the United States, wine tariffs are not likely to of immediate concern.

Interestingly, airplane parts (Airbus has a manufacturing facility in Mobile, Alabama) face only a 15% tariff. However, it will have an impact. This tariff will likely make Airbus products manufactured in the Mobile, Alabama, noncompetitive. Further, recent the World Trade Organization ruled that the U.S. had provided subsidies to its domestic air industry, and other nations have imposed retaliatory tariffs on the United States.

However, our focus is wine.

American wine tastes are fickle. Price is certainly a factor that helps inform taste. The importers of European wines understand that price drives consumer’s decisions, and that once a consumer decides that decision is rarely revisited.

Those at the greatest financial risk have responded. A new organization of chefs, The Coalition to Stop Restaurant Tariffs, has joined with The U.S. Wine Trade Alliance (USTWA) to request that the new administration move quickly to repeal the tariffs.

We can only hope that they are successful, and I will keep you posted on their efforts.

Next post…back to the positive side of wines and spirits.

This post is about a challenge for your palate.

Unfortunately, we rarely discuss white wines in this blog. However, Joy and I recently enjoyed a bottle of Ciro Picariello Irpinia Fiano that needed to be shared. In the process, we were reminded of the many excellent white wines that are not one of the ‘noble white grapes’ (originally Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling), and assumed to be less ‘worthy’. The classification of grapes (both worldwide and in the U.S.), and the impact on attitudes regarding white wines, is certainly a topic for conversation in a future post.

Fiano originates, and is primarily found, in the Campania region of Southern Italy There are also very modest acres planted with the grape in both Australia and the United States. Fiano has likely been around for a very long time. Pliny the Elder, the ancient Roman author, statesman and military leader, and considered to be the first wine critic, is thought to have identified Fiano as a viti apiane, or fruit with juice that attracted bees. The bees suggest the presence of sufficient sugar for fermentation. There is some dispute regarding Pliny’s identification of the Fiano grape, but the ancient reference is too good and requires sharing.

Fiano was identified by name in the 13^th century, became a regional favorite, and was then effectively lost due as a result of the 19th century phylloxera crisis. For the next century Fiano largely fell off the wine map both in Campania and its neighborhood. However, late in the 20^th the Mastroberardino family, long dedicated to introducing the world to Campania’s grapes/wines, ‘rediscovered’ Fiano. This ‘discovery’ was fortuitous.

The Mastroberardino family has ten generations of winemaking experience and are so intrinsically linked to the region’s culture that they were selected by the Italian government to preserve and manage the viticulture of Pompeii. They are excellent ambassadors for the region’s history, culture, and wines.

The Mastroberardinos are particularly noted for their work with widely distributed versions of Aglianico (a deeply colored and rich red wine). Aglianico has been long revered in Campania and is gaining popularity elsewhere. However, the family recognized the distribution potential of Fiano, embraced the grape, and are now bottling multiple styles of the wine.

Terroir is particularly critical to Fiano. The volcanic soil of the Apennine Mountains and the Mediterranean climate, which often produces ‘flabby’ wines produce wines that are surprisingly fresh.  A broader conversation about terroir is still another topic for future posts.

Despite the risk of higher alcohol resulting in ‘flabbiness’, Fiano vines produce small and thick-skinned grapes with relatively low yields. These modest yields have resulted in wines that defy the common perceptions of most Mediterranean climate products. Regional winemakers have created a style that offers excellent balance between acid and fruit.

Look for a well-structured Fiano to be a dry wine that is medium to full bodied with a hint of crisp acidity. Even though the fermentation process is done through stainless steel tanks with a few months of bottle aging, the Fiano can spend a few years in your cellar. As the wine ages, it introduces a honeyed element on the palate that will often extend through a medium finish. There is an excellent balance between acid and fruit.

You will find bottles labeled with both Fiano and Fiano di Avellino. The Fiano di Avellino is a DOCG, vinified following rigorous government standards, and represents the best that Italian vineyards can offer.

However, do not shy away from bottles also simply labeled Fiano. These are generally ‘declassified’ versions of the Fiano di Avellino. A wine that is declassified is often considered by the winemaker to be produced of ‘inferior’ grapes from a respected region.  A declassified Burgundy would likely be labeled as a village or regional wine rather than by its vineyard. These are generally excellent. The price is lower, the vintner losses some money, but the consumer can enjoy an excellent wine at a price that will not challenge the wallet.

The same is true of Fiano. A $60 bottle of Fiano di Avellino is not at all unusual. However, you can secure excellent Fiano for a third of that. There are many excellent Fiano bottlings available nationwide for less than $20. Check with your local retailer for their recommendations.

Enjoy this versatile wine with hard cheese, pasta with a white sauce, and white meat meals. That modest acidity and marked freshness makes this a wonderful wine to enjoy on a warm afternoon or sitting by the fireplace on a cooler day. Purchase, chill slightly, and enjoy…this wine can certainly be consumed young.

If you like dry whites (for instance, Chardonnay) …consider a Fiano for a change of pace. And I pledge to post about white wines far more regularly.

Joy and I had the opportunity to enjoy a socially distanced tasting of sparkling wines at Accent on Wine in Summerville as we headed into the recent holiday season. Vinny Wedderspoon organized a program that took a meandering, fascinating, and unique ‘sparkling’ route to traditional champagne. His goal was to offer an experience that allowed participants to realize that knowledge of sparkling wine needs to extend beyond Prosecco, Cava, and those wines originating in the Champagne region. Vinny succeeded.

One of the stars of the tasting was The Chook Sparkling Shiraz from Australia’s Black Chook.

Black Chook (Australian for chicken) is part of McLaren Vale’s Galvanized Wine Group. Founded and owned by McLaren Vale native Tony Parkinson, and managed since 2013 by well-regarded winemaker Alexia Roberts, the group began its existence in 1991 with 80 acres of Shiraz. Shiraz, of course, is the McLaren Vale signature grape. All Galvanized Wine Group reds are estate grown.

Parkinson’s parents owned an almond orchard in McLaren Vale. Parkinson did not join the almond business (made his fortune in advertising), he and wife, Susie, chose to relocate their family from Adelaide to Penny’s Hill located in McLaren Vale. Penny’s Hill, Black Chook and Thomas Goss are all owned by Parkinson and managed by Alexia Roberts. The Goss wines are named for one of the McLaren Vale’s largest landholders, some of which is now owned by Tony Parkinson. Both Penny’s Hill and Thomas Goss wines have limited U.S. distribution.

McLaren Vale, located in South Australia, with ideal soils, and noted for a Mediterranean climate, has been producing wines since the mid-18^th century.

The history origins of Shiraz (Syrah in the Rhone) are murky. However, it is known that James Busby, a Scotsman, transported the first Shiraz cuttings to Australia in the late 1830s. We know that the was first Shiraz was planted in South Australia in the mid-19th century, and we know that Shiraz now constitutes more than 50% of the grapes harvested in the region.

The Chook version was first introduced to the U.S. market in 2004 with a Shiraz/Viognier blend. You can find the Shiraz/Viognier nationwide for around $20. The Chook Sparkling Shiraz soon followed.

Sparkling wine can be vinified from virtually every grape varietal.

Lambrusco, the most well-known of non-Champagne sparkling wines, is produced in Northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna (Parma and Modena) region from four grape varietals that all begin with the term Lambrusco. We are most familiar with the sweeter version Lambrusco (11.5% ABV). However,  there are also dry versions of the wine.

The often sweeter Lambrusco is known to pair well with desert. The Chook (at 13% ABV) offers a far broader range of food pairings.

Black Chook’s Sparkling Shiraz is produced from wines aged from 3-5 years in French Oak thus offering depth and length, as well as some younger juice that, as the winemaker suggests, “adds lush and juicy fruit to the palate”.

Sparkling Shiraz is made in the same manner as Champagne. They are bottled fermented, aged on lees, and allowed to ferment in bottle.

James Suckling awarded The Chook 90 points suggesting that you will find “lots of licorice and tea leaf with meat and blackberry aromas”. He is right. You will also find nice body and a ‘velvet’ mouthfeel.

Think about pairing this one with red sauce pizza and BBQ. Serve it slightly chilled…not cold. Do not cellar these wines. They are ready to drink.

The Chook is distributed nationwide for around $20.

If you are looking for something different that will work with comfort food I would suggest trying a Sparkling Shiraz. The Chook would be an excellent choice.

The past nine months have certainly been difficult for everyone. The relentless trending upward of Covid-19 numbers has taken its toll on our collective psyche, and sadly cost hundreds of thousands of our friends and neighbors their lives.

During those nine months it felt unseemly to extol the quality of, and encourage the purchase of wine and spirits when so many had lost their jobs, had joined the 21^st century version of breadlines, or even faced eviction.

However, recently the outlook has changed. Vaccines and therapies are increasingly available, and there is now truly a light at the end of the proverbial tunnel. As we approach a new year it is time to look forward and to consider a return to some sense of normalcy.

Thus, a few suggestions for the early days of 2021.

Angels and Cowboys, 2018, Sonoma County Proprietary Red 

Founded by Yoav Gilet, who made his reputation developing the marketing strategy for SKYY Vodka, formed Cannonball wines in 2006 under the Share a Splash corporate name.  He launched Angels and Cowboys in 2014. Gilet manages the business and Ondine Chattan, trained in enology at Fresno State, and one of California’s most respected winemakers/consultants, who previously worked at Cline, Ridge and Geyser Peak, and collaborated with founding Cannonball winemaker Dennis Hill, now directs winemaking at Angels and Cowboys.

We first tasted the Angels and Cowboys, Sonoma County Proprietary Red (which is widely available) last fall (the 2017 version) at a tasting hosted by Summerville, South Carolina’s Accent on Wine, and recently (the 2018) at a smaller tasting also hosted by Accent on Wine. We were impressed on both occasions.

With Zinfandel providing a juicy base and depth generated by a Petite Sirah, and Rhone varietals Carignane, Syrah and Grenache, the result is a wine bright and floral on the nose, but with structure that works with both delicate meats and hardy cheese. While aged in French oak, Angels and Cowboys Proprietary Red offers integrated tannins and excellent balance. The fruit is sourced from the volcanic soils of Sonoma’s Alexander Valley as well as from vineyards in both the Russian River and Dry Creek valleys.

Look for hints of dark berry on the nose and spice and minerality on the palate that continue through the lingering finish. There is sufficient tannin to suggest that the 2018 version of the Proprietary Red will age for a few years, it is very ready to enjoy now.

James Suckling awarded the wine a 91 noting that “this is a fun blend with lots of character, delivering ripe fruit, but at the same time some cedar, bark, tea, and vanilla undertones”. You should be able to find Proprietary Red for $20.

Hirsch’s The Horizon American Whiskey

A.H. Hirsch Reserve 16-Year-Old (distilled in 1974) has been considered one of the finest American whiskeys every produced. Distilled in 1974 at Pennsylvania’s historic Schaefferstown Distillery (now known as Michters) located east of Harrisburg, by investment banker A.H. Hirsch, it was the focus of respected whiskey expert, Chuck Cowdery’s, The Best Bourbon You’ll Ever Taste.

There were only 400 barrels of Hirsch Reserve produced, and if you could afford the $3,500 price tag you might find one of the few bottles still available. It is one of the most expensive collectable American whiskeys ever produced.

The original Hirsch ceased operations in the late 1980s, Anchor Distilling (orginally part of Anchor Brewing) was spun off from the brewing operation in 2017-2018 and reconstitued as Hotaling & Co. Hotaling, headquartered in San Francisco, suggests that is a “pioneer in small production spirits, bringing pot-distilled whiskey back to the United States”.

The Hirsch you may find on the shelf (there is still not much available), is distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, and blended from two straight whiskeys with a mash bill containing 75% corn and 21% rye. All but 6% of the whiskey is aged for just over five years. The remainder is aged for just over six years.

Bottled at 92 proof you will find a hint of sweetness, wood, and perfume on the nose. A little pepper, vanilla, and leather emerge on the palate. The leather and pepper continue through the medium finish.

The Hirsch does not meet the meet the flavor profile of most contemporary American whiskey. You will not find heavy elements of sweet spice and honey. Rather than establishing a homogeneous relationship with many other domestic whiskeys, Hirsch has created a unique profile.

Created to be enjoyed neat or on the rocks (not ideal for cocktails requiring a neutral or sweeter base spirit), this $40 Bourbon is worth the search. Distribution is currently limited to California, Texas, Illinois, Massachusetts, Tennessee, New York, Kentucky and Georgia. You may find a retailer in one of these states that will ship. Moreover, the Hirsch people anticipate a wider distribution as they ramp up production.

My good friend, Steve Morrison of Sterling Cellars in Mahopac, New York, was kind enough to bring a bottle when visiting us in the South Carolina Lowcountry a few months ago.

As we welcome the calendar to turn the page to 2021 and the arrival of vaccine everywhere, it seemed appropriate to renew our conversation about wines and spirits.

A toast to better year for all of us.