Trust Your Retailer

I had the distinct pleasure (and I truly mean it) to have been engaged in the retail element of the wine and spirits industry for nearly 20 years. I was able to share both customer interests and my insights about interesting and unique beverages over that time. I assumed that customers were honest in their interests and that, in turn, they trusted me for advice. Conversely, if I have regularly trusted sommeliers and wine retailers to share with me their insights as to wines and spirits they recommend.

This trust in local wine and spirits merchants has been particularly important as we have moved to South Carolina, and the process has served us well as we have traveled the country and the world. There are many more qualified palates than mine, and there are many more qualified advocates for specific wines and spirits. This approach to trust has served us well as we have traveled across the country and Europe have enjoyed a wide variety of wine and spirits from Slovenia to Oregon.

In Summerville, South Carolina, we have come to appreciate the extraordinary talent of proprietor Stephane Peltier, and his excellent staff at Accent on Wine, in both by-the-glass and bottle choices. The same holds true for the newer, but also excellent, sommeliers at Graft Wine Shop (and wine bar) on Upper King Street in Charleston. A smaller footprint than Accent on Wine, their use of a Coravin wine preservation system allows them to offer a wider range of excellent (although more expensive) by-the-glass options. However, the choices offered by Graft are outstanding.

This brings us to our recent trip to the south of Spain.

Friends invited us to visit them in their long-time second family home outside of Malaga. Their house offers a spectacular view of a Mediterranean marine sanctuary and offers easy access to both Granada and Sevilla. While both Granada and Sevilla were extraordinary, one of the most enjoyable experiences was visits to their favorite tapa’s bars in the wonderful local town of La Herradura.

Referred to by locals as Bola 1,2 and 3, (three separate locations) we had the pleasure of visiting both Bola 2 and 3 (Bola 2 twice). We tasted a wide range of the wines offered by the glass (each served with a ‘free’ plate of tapas – the Calamari and meatballs were outstanding, and the wine was only $4 a glass). We were never disappointed.

I focused in reds. I first enjoyed the excellent products of Rioja. The 2015 Izadi is a 100% Tempranillo at 14% ABV that is aged for 14 months in oak (mostly American). The wine sells for $19 in the United States. Zachys of Scarsdale, NY, seems to be the only notable U.S. retailer. This is the perfect representation of Rioja. There is great color and excellent red fruit with hints of smoke and floral elements that extend through the finish.

The Bola sommeliers suggested that if we enjoyed the Izadi, we would really like the 2014 Glorioso (another Rioja). They were correct. This was another wine at $4 per glass, that has aged in French oak for 12 months. Unique for Rioja, this is a wine that drinks young and fresh. The Glorioso is fruit forward with a medium body and outstanding finish. And, of course, another wine served with another outstanding tapas. This Crianza is a wine that sells for approximately $15 in the U.S. (if you can find it).

Our second trip to Bola 2 introduced us (at the sommeliers recommendation) to the 2016 Montelaguna Ribera del Duero (aged in oak for 6 months). The acidity provides a vibrancy and the fruit (blackberry and raspberry) appears early on the palate and continues through the finish. Great with cheese (or meatballs), this wine would sell for $15…but you are unlikely to find it in the U.S.

Trust your local wine merchant…they know both their patrons and their wines…no matter where you might travel.

Farmhouse Red

Still another discovery from the Charleston Food and Wine Event’s, “Blended” Evening at Founder’s Hall in West Ashley.

The Cline Winery Farmhouse Red is next up …

Many years ago, when visiting the Northern California Wine Country, Joy and stopped by the Cline Winery in southern Sonoma. On prominent display outside the winery was a beautiful vintage Red Truck. Acquired by Cline owners Fred and Nancy Cline through an auction to support the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, the truck became the symbol behind the blend of Syrah, Petite Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre and Grenache. Introduced in 2002, and was very popular, but the label was sold three years later to Dan Leese and Doug Walker, two former Foster’s Wine Estates executives. Cline Cellars continued to source the grapes for Red Truck wines.

Cline has been producing wine since 1982, and they have long focused on sustainable approaches to farming and wine making. They have now fully embraced the ‘Green String” method of sustainable farming. Working on the principle that farming and winemaking should “optimize the health of the soil, plants, and animals”. They promote biodiversity and to seek to minimize pollution.

Winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos also produces a product that is vegan (no animal derived products) and gluten free.

Vinified from nearly 60% Zinfandel (with some smaller quantities of Syrah, Carignane, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah and something called ‘mixed red’) this offers the flavor characteristics of a field blend sourced from the Southern Rhone. This Farmhouse Red is aged for 7 months in 40% new French Oak.

The wine was medium bodied with excellent dark fruit elements on the nose and palate. This will be excellent with grilled sausage and lamb…Summer is coming.

I could not find a ‘downstate’ New York retailer, but the Farmhouse Red is available at Stew’s in Danbury. In South Carolina you could find the wine at Bill’s in Summerville or Harris Teeter.

The Farmhouse Red should sell for under $12…but drinks as more expensive…

Vinoce Cabernet Franc

Another wine from the Charleston Food and Wine event.

At a ‘Blended’ event offering blended wines with a wide variety of small plates (ranging from lamb chops to gnocchi based ‘Mac n Cheese’) we had the opportunity to taste three vintages of the Vinoce Mt. Veeder Cabernet Franc (2008, 2011, 2014). Obviously, the organizers ‘cheated’ and allowed a few single varietals to be poured. Good for us …

The Vinoce wines were uniformly excellent. They age beautifully. The 2008 was complex with excellent balance; the 2011 evolved with the fruit more prominent and the finish extraordinary; the 2014 was fruit forward and simply fun. There are two issue…they are expensive (about $70), and they are only available in California. This wine would be worth the hunt and worth the wait for it to age a few years.

However, Vinoce also produces 20 Rows Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is more widely distributed and more affordable (about $20). Very good. Look for this one …

An Afternoon With Sinskey

We have returned from our European journey. I will discuss wine and spirits experiences in Spain and Ireland in future posts, but today’s conversation is about Robert Sinskey and a luncheon at The Establishment during Charleston’s Food and Wine Festival.

Joy and I visited Robert Sinskey’s winery on the Silverado Trail in the Napa Valley nearly 30 years ago. The winery building was new and Bob Sinskey, a physician and the founder of Sinskey Wines, had turned over the winemaking reigns to his son, THE Robert Sinskey who has been producing unique and flavorful wines for the past 30 years.

Sinskey offered this 2014 Pinot Blanc in the 1.5 format. I know that 2014 sounds a bit ‘long in the tooth’ for this delicate wine, but the age provided both depth and an earthiness that was excellent with poached scallop with ‘compressed cucumber’ and pear. The winemaker reports that this wine is only available in mags and .375s. He suggests that “you either start with it or party with it”.

We moved to a 2015 Abraxas as a companion to Roasted Cobia (white and flakey fish) in a ham-mushroom broth. The Abraxas is a blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer. There is a pleasant mineral element that extends from the nose through the finish. The green apple on the palate was an excellent complement to a fish without a fishy taste. This is a wine that be a wonderful addition to vegetarian dishes. As to his approach to winemaking, Sinskey simply recommends that “you grow the grapes and try not to screw it up”.

The final course was squab with morels and foie gras. Sinskey paired this unique dish with his 2014 POV. This is a Bordeaux blend (Right Bank) of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There was an excellent floral element on the nose and earthy tones of dark fruit on the palate. This wine worked wonderfully with the delicate qualities of the squab.

Sinskey was passionate about efforts to develop elegant and balanced wines that “should not hurt the palate or the planet”. The Sinskey Winery has been organic since 1991, practices regenerative farming, and strives to meet carbon offset standards.

This is also a winery that does not submit wines for review. They do not want alcohol above 13.5% and they want to let each vintage to speak for itself rather than be a clone of the ‘best’ of each wine. Sinskey argues that “each vintage is an impression of the vintage that came before it”. Tasting the 2014 Pinot Blanc provides a reminder of the 2013 Pinot Blanc and provides a forecast of the 2015.

Ultimately, Sinskey believes that good grapes good wine…can’t argue with that…