There are instances in which Riesling can work with spicy foods, but in those instances I lean toward Riesling’s Alsace sibling, the spicier Gewürztraminer. In general, most Riesling is too sweet and often too thin for my taste. And, then along comes a Riesling that satisfies my specific demands for both balance and body…Hidden Bench Riesling.

Vinny, Accent on Wine’s guru of the ‘new and unique’, offered me a taste of the Hidden Bench Riesling, and gained a advocate (at least for Hidden Bench). Interestingly, the wine is Canadian. Vinifera (grapes cultivated for wine) can be produced virtually anywhere. There are wine grapes grown, and wine produced, in all 50 US states. There are microclimates capable of growing excellent wine grapes in countries that are not amongst those we consider ‘traditional’ wine producing nations. The gradual warming of the northern hemisphere now permits wine grapes to be grown where it was previously seemed difficult/impossible (for example, England).

The Hidden Bench comes us from the Niagara Peninsula of the Ontario VQA (Vintner Quality Alliance), the Canadian version of the American Viticultural Area (AVA). The VQA regulates virtually every aspect of the wine making process from acceptable grape varietals to ‘label integrity’. The VQA requires that a wine carrying a VQA label statement must be bottled using 100% Ontario grown grapes.

The Ontario vintners struggle with those occasionally harsh winters that threaten vines and may relay bud break followed by humid summers that threaten the health of grapes. Fortunately, Riesling does not require as long (and warm) a growing season as do other grapes. The grape features hard wood vines that can withstand harsher winters and will mature with a later bud break. The later bud break is an agricultural feature common to cooler climates. They also remind us that the region sits at the same latitude as do the French wine regions of Provence and Languedoc. Some U.S. consumers may think of Canada solely as the land of snow and hockey, but the winemakers of Ontario are determined to alter that perception.

Hidden Bench is in the Beamsville Bench VQA (sub-appellation) on the southern shore of Lake Ontario. They define themselves as a winery that is “non-interventionist, quality-focused and terroir-driven”. The winery produces just 120,000 bottles of Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, and claim that their distribution is ‘highly allocated’. The highly allocated element is certainly true in South Carolina. Wine shops are offered very limited quantities of Hidden Bench wine in the Low Country.

Formed in 2003, the three Hidden Bench vineyards allow for estate production of their grapes from soil that is “limestone rich, clay based glacial till”. They are so committed to quality that they decided to declassify their 2004 vintage, because it did not meet their demanding standards, and sell it for bulk wine production…an enormous financial hit for a new winery.

I tasted the 2016 version of their Riesling and heartily attest to the commitment to the Hidden Bench commitment to quality. The nose gives a preview of white fruit elements that are evident from the nose through the finish. The wine is fresh and clean with a balance that that is pleasing to the palate.

This is a Riesling that surprises with both its complexity and with its low ABV. At 11% ABV you would anticipate a sweeter wine. Because sugar converts to alcohol during the fermentation process, the rule of thumb is that lower ABV generally equates to greater residual sugar, and in turn to a sweeter wine. Not so with this one. My palate tells me that the sweeter element of the Hidden Bench Riesling emanate from the pear and honeysuckle tones…a wonderful winemaking trick.

This Riesling will retail for more than $25, and you are going to need some luck finding it. Hidden Bench has a strong Canadian following…distributors and retailers will need to pry some of the wine out Ontario and into the hands of U.S. consumers. It is available at Accent on Wine in the South Carolina Low Country.

I am now on the hunt for other Riesling that will satisfy my structure and flavor (little evidence of residual sugar) standards. Please share your recommendations.

I must start this post with a confession…I have never been a devotee of Maker’s Mark. It isn’t that I had anything against the classic Kentucky Bourbon, it simply seemed ‘pedestrian’.

My attitude has changed.

Joy and I had the opportunity to listen to (enjoy being the more operative word) a conversation with Bill Samuels Jr., son of T. Williams “Bill” Samuels Sr., who purchased the distillery that would become Maker’s Mark for $35,000 in 1953. Marker’s Mark has changed hands multiple times…initially to Hiram Walker in 1981 and most recently in 2014 to Beam Suntory (along with Jim Beam for $16 Billion).

Although the distillery is no longer family owned, it is family managed. Bill Samuels, Jr., managed production until 2011 when his son took control, and now travels telling a compelling tale of Maker’s Mark and the development of the American fine Bourbon industry. Bill Jr. suggests that until the early 1950s only those who produced American Bourbon were willing to consume it. Kentucky Bourbon was essentially undrinkable. Bill Samuels, Sr. wanted to make a Bourbon that tasted good. And, while the project started as a hobby, the result was the modern Kentucky Bourbon industry.

The process began with understanding how we taste, and how best to move the initial impact from the back of the palate to the front. The goal was to accentuate the flavor profile and reduce the alcohol burn.

Bill, Jr.’s mother supported the process by baking bread from grain options to clarify the best mashbill, and by experimenting with a process to create the iconic wax sealed cap. The development of that wax seal cost the Russel family $20.

The bread proved that a blend of 70% corn, a little barley, and Red Winter Wheat would be ideal. Maker’s Mark does not use rye in its mashbill (unique among most Bourbon producers). And, while the copyrighted font on the Maker’s Mark label and the wax seal were wonderful marketing tools, ultimately 3M was engaged to develop a process for safely removing that wax. Maker’s Mark, along with George Dickel and Old Forester, are the only distillers to identify its product using the Scottish term ‘whisky’.

The Samuel family determined that ‘cooking’ each of the grains separately would maximize the flavor package. Maker’s Mark also moves barrels within the rickhouse (warehouse for whiskey aging). Most distillers do not move barrels once they are in place and blend barrels from various locations in the rickhouse to create the final (or consistent) flavor profile for a particular whiskey. Maker’s Mark want the flavor profile created in the barrel.

Bill, Jr. says that between 1945 and 1995 there was a single Bourbon startup…Maker’s Mark. Since 1995 there have been 2100. Most of these new distillers claim to be ‘small batch’ producers. Interestingly, Marker’s Mark continues to identify itself as a small batch producer and offers as a definition that the bottles should come from 1,000 gallons (20 barrels) or less, and from a single mashbill. They are passionate in their belief that a distilleries size should not dictate its status as a small batch producer.

Bill Samuels, Jr. is now in his 80s and he retired from the day to day operations of Maker’s Mark in 2011. After starting his professional life as an aerospace engineer (as well as law school and a stint as a White House intern), Bill, Jr. spent 35 years growing Maker’s Mark into a world recognized brand. He turned the operation of the family ‘shop’ over to his son, Rob.

Rob was in charge when the distillery announced (via email) that it was reducing the ABV from 90 proof (45% ABV) to 84 proof (42% ABV). Retail customers (including those New Yorkers to whom I had sold whiskey for years) had such a strong negative reaction to the idea that Maker’s Mark reversed its decision. Bad initial decision…satisfactory response.

However, there was another ‘act’ in Bill, Jr’s Maker’s Mark experience. In 2015 he introduced the Private Select program. Retailers and distributors may choose barrel stave options to craft a flavor profile that they believe best satisfies the demands of their customers. I have had the opportunity to taste Chan’s Wine World Private Select…excellent. Look for Maker’s Mark Private Selection in stores near you.

Bill Samuel, Jr. is a wonderful storyteller, and he has been instrumental in shaping the modern distilling industry.  It turns out that the whisky (honoring their spelling), is certainly not ‘pedestrian’.

The Wonderful Company appears to be a marketing company with a singular focus on its own products.

Stewart and Lynda Resnick are the driving force behind the Wonderful Company. In 1979 they acquired Telefloral (the floral firm) and API Alarm Systems. Some years later they purchased the collectible company Franklin Mint. In 2002 they founded POM (the pomegranate drink), and two years later purchased FIJI Water (increasing the water’s sales by 300%). They ultimately made FIJI the largest imported bottled water brand in the United States. Over the years they also established Wonderful Halos (fruit) and Wonderful pistachios (amongst others).

So, you may ask, what does any of this have to do with wine?

The answer…along the way they also acquired Justin (2010) and Landmark (2011). While The Wonderful Company is concerned about getting the greatest quantity of their product into the hands of consumers, they have also (fortunately) focused on the quality of the products they own and represent. In 2015 The Wine Enthusiast named Justin its ‘Winery of the Year’. And, Landmark continues to produce ‘classic’ California Chardonnay.

And, now, they have introduced JNSQ Rosé and Sauvignon Blanc. The JNSQ, Je Ne Sais Quoi roughly translates to a ‘quality that cannot be described’, can in fact, be described…it is excellent. While the wine only identifies Grenache as one of the grapes, and the white pepper and red fruit of Grenache are prominent on the nose and through the palate, there are elements of Syrah also present. Look for a clean finish that include hints of peach and tropical fruits. The winery also suggests that the wine offers a “graceful texture and a clean finish” that will work with a wide range of foods. They are correct. They also indicate that the wine is “crafted in the style of the best French Rosés”. Again, correct.

The Wonderful Company appears to have crafted a wine starting with the desires of the consumer and working backward to the vineyard. They determined that millennials, particular millennial women, had moved to Rosé and Sauvignon Blanc. They also determined that millennials enjoyed wines that are both fresh and food friendly. And, they then created wines that met both of those requirements.

The marketing element of the project has created an eye-catchy and reusable bottle. Retailers will be unhappy with the package…it takes more space than the traditional 750 ml bottle, but the folks visiting the South Walton Beach’s Food and Festival bought every bottle available.

The JNSQ Rosé sells in the mid-high $20s and is available in virtually every market. While more expensive than many Rosés, both the bottle and wine are worth it.

The Wonderful Company is valued at $4 Billion. They know marketing…and, apparently, they know wine.

I stumbled across the Rubus 2016 Proprietary Reserve Red (Spain) while touring the more than 120 tents of wines and spirits at the Fort Walton Beaches Wine and Food Festival. I knew nothing about the wine, but I knew the story of how it came to be.

Bumper grape crops in the first decade of the 21st century resulted in wineries choosing between dumping excellent juice or selling it to bottlers who produced ‘boutique’ wines often available only for a single vintage.   In 2009, 90+ Wines took that concept and created a very successful brand. The 90+ people looked for excess juice from respected producers, bought it, bottled it, and sold it under their label at prices lower than the bottlings of the same juice with the more prestigious label. The sales approach was simple…if you like it, buy plenty, it is unlikely you will see it again.

Rubus has followed the same model. It “offers consumers a pleasurable drink at a pleasurable price”. They look for wines at, “incredible quality/price ratio”. The first Rubus was a 1997 Amador County Zinfandel. Only 1200 cases were produced, and it sold in just a few days. The Rubus label did not reappear until 2009 with a Russian River Chardonnay and a Stag’s Leap Cabernet. Since then the Virginia based operation has sourced grapes from New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, and France as well as Australia and the U.S. They have produced Mendoza Malbec and Waipara Valley (NZ) Sauvignon Blanc. Spain is a new venture and you can look for Rioja to join the Proprietary Red Blend.

The first Proprietary Reserve Red was sourced from Australian grapes. This version originates in Spain (90% Garnacha and 10% Syrah) from largely older vines grown largely at a higher altitude. They age some of the juice in French oak and they sell it at a very competitive price. Wine World sells it for $12 ($20 for 2)…a great price for this wine.

The Rubus representative and I agreed that this is the ideal ‘pizza wine’. A touch of sweetness from the Garnacha would work wonderfully with the spice of a pizza, and the 14.5% ABV offers a structure that would hold up against the hardy cheeses and meats.

Kysela wines are distributed throughout the US. Total Wines in Charleston offers a few options (although not the Proprietary Red). And, of course you can find Rubus (three options at Chan’s Wine World).

Remember, if you taste it and you like it, buy more. You may never see it again.

In 1933 the 21^st Amendment overturned the 18^th Amendment and Prohibition ended. However, negotiations with individual states to assure the passage of repeal included provisions giving states broad power to regulate alcoholic beverages within their respective states.

States took full advantage of their power to regulate.

In Ohio, and many other states, distilled spirits were managed by state-managed retail outlets (where market forces do not impact price) while wine and beer was sold through traditional commercial venues. In New York, state licensed retailers could sell spirits and wine but could not sell beer. In Connecticut and Florida (and many other states) any state licensed retailers may sell distilled spirits, wine, and beer (thus, prices are subject to market forces). More than 30 states permit the sale of alcoholic beverages in grocery stores…New York does not. There are almost as many variations related to the retail sale of alcoholic beverages as there are states.

And then was the case of Granholm vs. Heald. In 2005 the Supreme Court ruled that if states permitted in-state wineries to ship bottles to a state’s residents then it must permit out-of-state wineries to do the same. The Supreme Court ruled that when a specific state law discriminates against interstate commerce (giving an advantage to in-state interests – the dormant commerce clause) the law is often struck down.

While the case did not specifically grant the same permission to retailers as to wineries, many retailers determined that the right to ship also applied to them. And, for a few years many retailers built robust websites and expanded their customer base to include wine and spirit consumers throughout the nation. However, a variety of impediments eventually reduced the number of ‘friendly states’ into which alcoholic beverages could be shipped to less than 15. For example, shipping companies were reluctant to ship wine designated packages and individual states established laws and regulations to restrict the movement of out-of-state retail alcohol to residents.

Now we have Tennessee Wine & Spirits Retailers Association vs. Blair before the Supreme Court.

Tennessee requires a two-year residency before an individual in the Volunteer State can apply for a liquor license. Moreover, Tennessee imposes a nine-year wait for out-of-state individuals and corporations. Utah transplants to Tennessee, Doug and Mary Ketchum (who were encouraged to move to Memphis for their daughter’s health) decided to purchase a liquor store. Total Wines (the retail giant), at almost the same time, applied for licenses to open two retail locations in the state.  The Tennessee Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC) was on the verge of approving the applications when state retailers, through The Tennessee Wine and Spirits Retailers Association, threatened to sue the state to block the applications.

The TABC went to federal court to determine if the residency requirement(s) was constitutional. The U.S. Court of Appeals for the 6^th Circuit determined that the residency requirement was unconstitutional. The key argument being that the residency requirement was a violation of the ‘dormant commerce clause’ by discriminating against out-of-state residents. The 6^th Circuit agreed with the TABC.

The retailer’s association appealed to the Supreme Court, and the court agreed to hear a case that will essentially determine if the 21^st amendment provides Tennessee and other states the right to create and enforce any such requirements. The decision may determine, for instance, if a computer or clothing company can sell in Tennessee (or by extension anywhere else) then why should those who sell alcoholic beverages be prohibited for selling their products?

The Tennessee vs. Blair oral arguments were made to the Supreme Court in January. The decision is be rendered between May 13^th and the end of this term in June.

We will examine the Supreme Court arguments, the decision, and the implications when the Supreme Court announces its decision and provides the reasoning supporting the decision. The implications are far-reaching…

There are wines and spirits with a ‘great’ story, and there are wines and spirits that taste great and are sometimes a great value. A product that offers flavor and value can eventually earn a following, but a product with a story but without flavor and value quickly disappear from the retail shelve.

While attending the South Walton Beaches Wine and Food Festival I had the opportunity to taste three of American Freedom Distillery’s Horse Soldier Bourbon…story, taste, and value.

Currently distilled in Columbus, Ohio (Horse Soldier started with eight-year-old stock), the St. Petersburg, Florida based operation was founded by a group of retired Afghanistan veteran Green Berets. Named for the Green Beret use of horses to navigate the difficult Afghan terrain, and with bottles of their Signature Bourbon pressed in molds made from steel “salvaged from the World Trade Center site after the events of September 11, 2001”, this is clearly a product with a compelling backstory. Moreover, a portion of all bourbon proceeds “support the America’s Response monument” at New York’s Ground Zero.

The Horse Soldier team did not rely on the backstory. They visited distilleries in Scotland, Ireland, and Kentucky to better understand the process, created the tagline “Legendary Men, Legendary Spirits”, and hit the road to introduce Horse Soldier Bourbon. They sold the first year’s allocation in a month.

I had the opportunity to taste the Straight/87 Proof ($39), Small Batch/95 Proof ($59), and Barrel Strength/108.5 Proof ($79) bourbons.

The Straight Bourbon is produced of 65% Corn/30% Rye/5% Barley. They use limestone filters and new American Oak (required for Bourbon). The result is a “caramel, toasted corn, and a dark fruit nose”. The oak that emerges on the nose continues through the palate with vanilla and a hint of honey. The lingering finish offers honey and a “warm spicy feel”.

The Small Batch offers a different mashbill. The 70% Corn/20% Soft Winter Wheat/10% Barley is also filtered with limestone and aged in new American Oak. The oak is more prominent with this style. The caramel and the honey is joined by a hint of raisin on the nose. The honey continues on the palate and you will find notes of apple that continues through the finish.

The Barrel Strength is also produced of 70% corn/20% soft winter wheat/10% Barley with limestone filters and new American Oak aging. The corn, however, is Yellow Dent. The Yellow Dent is noted for ‘high soft starch’ that increases sugars and thus alcohol, and in turn offers ‘spiced raisin and toffee’ as prominent elements of the flavor package. I generally find barrel strength spirits to be uncomfortably high in alcohol. And, while the Horse Soldier Barrel Strength is certainly high in alcohol, the mashbill has resulted in a smooth drink with a wonderful deep copper hue in a well-structured spirit.

You can currently find Horse Soldier throughout Florida (including Wine World locations in the panhandle). The website suggests that you could find Horse Soldier in Columbia, South Carolina with plans of soon appearing in Charleston. New York distribution is on the very near horizon.

Look for this one…the Bourbon is excellent, and the story are compelling.

We have returned from the wonderful South Walton Beaches Wine and Food Festival and there is much to share with you about the wines and spirits that we tasted over the Festival’s four days. However, before we dive into that experience, I would like to share a wine included in the May selection from the Accent on Wine club.

The Caruso & Minini 2016 Frappato, Nerello Mascalese is a Sicilian product that validates the current image of Sicily as a region capable of generating excellent wine. The Sicily DOC supports nearly 100 producers and there are over 3,000 grape growers resulting in more than 20 million bottles produced. Many of those 20 million bottles are exported.

However, as recently as three decades ago wines from Sicily were either fortified or Marsala. Sicily was significantly impacted by the phylloxera epidemic. But, a significant investment, a willingness to embrace indigenous grapes, and wines that offer excellent flavor packages at even better prices, have made the wines of Sicily worth seeking.

The Mediterranean climate (Caruso & Minini is one the western-most coast – ironically near the town of Marsala), is ideal for the growth of excellent wine grapes. The rocky soil that is rich in organic substances, resides at nearly 1000 feet above sea level, and dominates the nearly 300 acres of the winery’s estate grapes.

The Caruso family has been in the wine business for four generations, and for most of those generations they focused on growing grapes. The family began bottling their vinified grapes in the mid-1990s and in 2004 Mario Minini, of Lombardy, joined the Caruso’s in the current winery.

Caruso & Minini’s 2016 Frappato and Nerello Mascalese is a product of Sicily’s indigenous grape production. The DNA study of both grapes suggests an historic connection between those grapes and the king of Tuscan grapes, Sangiovese (and some other unidentified varietal). The Accent on Wine selection offers 15% Frappato providing the wine with a fresh (and ironically, a grapey nose), and the rest Nerello Mascalese offers a hint of vanilla and excellent tannins.

This wine also offers excellent balance. There is a wonderful acidity (a little tingle on the tongue), fresh fruit that Vinny of Accent on Wine suggests provides  “bright black cherries, red roses, and cloves” (excellent description). The nose suggests floral elements and the fruit extends from the palate through the finish.

This wine is excellent with cheese-based dishes, and we found the 2016 Caruso and Minini to be a wonderful addition to left-over Mac and Cheese.

This wine is not widely distributed. However, you can find it at Accent on Wine. And, even if you cannot track down the Caruso & Minini, talk with your local wine shop about their Sicilian options…you will not regret it.