This week the Supreme Court handed an enormous victory to Total Wines in the Tennessee Wine and Spirts Retailers Association v. Thomas. Tennessee retailers attempted to restrict the right of Total Wines to open a megastore in Tennessee because it would violate a Tennessee law that required that an applicant for a liquor retail license to “have lived in Tennessee for at least two years”.

Total Wines is not the only likely winner in this case.

In a 7-2 decision with newly appointed Justice Neil Gorsuch and Clarence Thomas dissenting, Justice Samuel Alito writing the majority opinion, states “that the 21st Amendment gives states some leeway to regulate alcohol for legitimate reasons like protecting the public health and safety, but it does not sanction regulations that don’t have any connection to health and safety and are instead intended to shield state residents from competition.” And, that is the key phrase in this opinion…” shield state residents from competition”.

I had written in an earlier post that alcohol has long been regarded as a product unique from virtually every other legally produced consumer good. Alcohol was subject to laws that were entirely arbitrary as determined by individual states even if that determination was at odds with interstate commerce elements of the Constitution. And, it appeared that many states (if not most) were acting in best interest of their indigenous commercial interests rather than in the best interests of the state’s residents.

Critically, for those who seek wines and spirits unavailable in their particular state, but available elsewhere, Justice “Alito (in his opinion) indicated that the Constitution bars states from discriminating against ‘all out-of-state economic interests’ – not just out-of-state alcohol and alcohol producers, as the retailers had argued.” Oh my…might you be able to buy from retailers as diverse as Chan’s Wine World in Florida or Sterling Cellars in New York, or any other wine/spirit retailer with an item you legitimately seek? Assuming you are over 21 with a means of assuring payment of a product, you may soon be able to scan the web…and make a purchase of a wine or spirit free from fear that your package will be confiscated.

Now, there is still the matter of a retailer’s willingness to develop a robust website and an effective shipping process. There is still the matter of shippers such as Fed Ex and UPS willing accept shipments of wine and spirits. And, there is still the matter of state taxes. If you purchase through the web, are you then obligated to pay that retailer the sales tax in the state or county in which they do business?    These are only some of the questions that need to be resolved…but the decision rendered yesterday (Wednesday, June 26th) by the Supreme Court finally permits those questions to be asked, and most importantly, for processes to emerge to resolve those questions and issues.

One of the arguments raised by Tennessee retailers in support of Tennessee statutes, was that local retailers would be likely “to promote responsible alcohol consumption”. Justice Alito counters, and six of his colleagues agree, that “If the state really wanted to promote responsible alcohol consumption… there are better options that do not discriminate against out-of-state retailers, such as requiring better training for managers and employees.” Even Justice Gorsuch “acknowledged that the residency requirement would reduce ‘competition in the liquor market by excluding nonresidents or recent arrivals’.  Justive Gorsuch recognizes that the a function of the Tennessee statute, even if unintended, was to restrict legitimate commerce protected by the Constitution.

Amy Howe posted in the SCOTUS (Supreme Court of the United States) Blog that “In his opinion, Alito indicated that the Constitution bars states from discriminating against ‘all out-of-state economic interests’ – not just out-of-state alcohol and alcohol producers, as the retailers had argued. This means that states that allow in-state retailers to ship wine to customers within the state could face an uphill battle in preventing sales from out-of-state retailers as well.”

And, that folks is what elevates this opinion, as do virtually all opinions rendered by the Supreme Court, from a local issue to one of national importance.

This decision has the potential to broaden opportunity for consumers and retailers alike. Retailers with excellent collections and robust websites could grow national markets. There is a potential threat to small stores. However, much like local hardware stores who survive, and thrive, in the era of Home Depot and Lowes, there will still be a need for smaller local wine spirits retailers. Most wine and spirits are purchased for this weekend’s party and tonight’s dinner…not made via the web.

However, we are likely entering a ‘brave new world’ in the wine and spirits industry.

Hold on…

My wife’s cousin Cecily and her husband Brian visited us this week from their home in Missouri. We shared with them many of Charleston’s most iconic sights including the Pineapple Fountain and Rainbow Row. We enjoyed a carriage ride through the Lower Battery and lunch at Summerville’s Accent on Wine. Accent on Wine is not actually iconic, but it very much part of our ‘Charleston Experience’.

We also enjoyed a wonderful dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Anson’s (appropriately located on Anson Street).

The wine list at Anson’s is well cultivated and we chose a bottle of 2015 Ramey Russian River Chardonnay to share with appetizers. We greatly enjoyed this 90-point rated wine that is clean and crisp, and which worked wonderfully with a variety of small plates. I determined that a personal refresher course on David Ramey and his wines would be excellent subject for a blog entry. Ironically, and fortuitously, upon our return home, the newest edition of The Wine Spectator was in the mailbox, and who should grace the cover…David Ramey.

My experience with Ramey Wines extends nearly 20 years. Steve Morrison the owner of Sterling Cellars in Mahopac, New York, for whom I was consulted, loved the lean and fruit dominant style that Ramey brought to Chardonnay, he carried many of Ramey options. I too came to appreciate the Burgundian styling and extraordinary quality of a Ramey Chard.

David Ramey is an interesting man. He earned an undergraduate degree in literature (because “he wanted to be educated and well-read in his culture”), and then have determined that his future was as a winemaker, he earned a master’s degree in Enology from the University of California Riverside. However, he credits experience in Bordeaux working with Christian Moueix of Petrus (twice in France, and at Dominus on this side of the Atlantic), to ‘learning how to make wine’. Then, after a stint in Australia, he replaced Merry Edwards at Matanzas Creek, and took positions at both Chalk Hill and Rudd (amongst others) while crafting the classic Chardonnays released by those wineries.

He has pioneered whole cluster pressing in California (modeling Burgundy), encouraged winemakers to work with “indigenous yeasts, and encouraging sur lies aging and malolactic fermentation”. Ultimately, there emerged a California style of Chardonnay that was “richer, and lush and silky”. The style follows the winemaking approach employed by Ramey who indicates that “he never describes wine in terms of flavor or aroma…it’s all about texture in the palate-smooth and silky”. This philosophy shines through all of his wines.

Ramey also ‘fines’ his wine, but he does not filter. Fining removes suspended particulates, but filtering runs the risk of “stripping out the flavors and texture”. He has significantly reduced the use of new oak in in his single-vineyard production to less than 25%. He believes that reliance on new oak may create a wine with both a structure and flavor profile that could overpower the elegance of the grape.

This winemaker also relies on malolactic fermentation. He argues that malolactic fermentation, also a hallmark of Chablis, can produce wines with excellent balance and the ability to age. He rejects the arguments of ABC ( Anything But Chardonnay) that argues malolactic fermentation is responsible for the fat and flabby Chardonnay that dominated the market in the late 90’s and through the first decade of this century. The problem, according to Ramey, is malolactic fermentation in combination with new oak aging.

Along the way David Ramey has earned the title of Professor of California Chardonnay. He lectures on the both grape and winemaking related to Chardonnay at industry symposiums. He has published numerous papers related to the chemistry of winemaking with titles such as the “Effects of Skin Contact Temperature on Chardonnay Must and Composition”, and “Low Input Winemaking-let nature do the work”. Interestingly, this last title does not suggest that Ramey believes that wine is entirely a product of the vineyard. He argues that great wine is a 50/50 proposition – 50% from the vineyard, 50% from the winemaker. He argues that terroir is critical as “vineyards should be selected for their ability to sustainably produce quality fruit”. And that “soil must be right for the climate and the varietal”. It is with this principle in mind that the Ramey family (two of his children have joined the enterprise), purchased Westside Farms in Sonoma.

Winemaking and marketing decisions made over the past 20+ years, have served David Ramey and his wife Carla, who is the business genius behind the winery, very well. They began with less than 300 cases of Hyde Chardonnay in 1996 and are ready to break ground on a Sonoma County winery on Westside Farms that will support a 60,000-case capacity. They have introduced a second label, Sidebar, allowing Ramey to work with Sauvignon Blanc, Old Vine Zinfandel, and Kerner (a German grape that is a “cross between Riesling and Trollinger that also produces fine, aromatic whites in the Alto Adige region of northeastern Italy”). These are grapes that Ramey says will never be included in the Ramey Wine portfolio and allows the winery to produce more ‘price-friendly’ wines. Look for them…I will.

The 2016 versions of Ramey Chardonnay have earned rave reviews. However, the 2015 we enjoyed at Anson is clear evidence that David Ramey makes Chardonnay that is well-balanced and offers excellent apple and pear in a crisp and fresh package…and will age.

A story of a long-ago trip to Napa Valley.

In an earlier life as a wine consultant in New York, Joy and I often visited Napa/Sonoma. The food was always excellent and there were many wine tasting appointments. While tastings are a professional requirement of such trips, sometimes the tasting was a pleasure and sometimes it was simply instructive. However, there were occasions when the tasting experience was both a pleasure and instructive. One such pleasurable and instructive experience was a trip to Spottswoode.

Spottswoode was and is (Robert Parker awarded their 2015 vintage 100 points), an outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon producer. The wineries director was then Tracey Skupny. Because Sterling Cellars of Mahopac, New York, which I represented at the time, was a long-time supporter and sales outlet for Spottswoode Cabernet, Tracey offered us the opportunity to sample the latest vintage. She suggested we taste aside the pool of Mary Novak, Spottswoods late founder and owner/manager over nearly forty years…a wonderful suggestion. On the walk from the winery to the pool, Tracey shared insights about the specific vintage and Spottswoode in general. Tracey also shared that she and her husband, John (who we met as he happened to be driving between vineyard visits for his primary employer, Neibaum-Coppola Estate) were producing a small amount of Cabernet Franc. Joy and I love Cabernet France and Tracey suggested we look for Lang and Reed, named for their sons.

It is not unusual that individuals connected to larger and prestigious wineries might try their hand at a personal label, but Lang and Reed’s focus on Cabernet France was intriguing, and we began the search. Eventually, we found .375 bottles at a small Italian restaurant in San Francisco.  We purchased a bottle and loved the wine. Upon our return to New York we purchased a few cases over the years from the Lang and Reed NY representative, but rarely encountered it in a restaurant or in a wine shop.

Fast forward to our new address in the South Carolina Low Country.

We were very pleased to find the North Coast Lang and Reed Cabernet Franc at the wonderful Crushed, a small wine shop in Mt. Pleasant. The wine was rich with the excellent fruit forward approach that Tracey and John have always emphasized with this grape. This wine was (and is) available for approximately $30. Sourced from 100% Cabernet Franc, with grapes produced in Napa (6%), Sonoma (14%), and Lake Counties (80%), the nearly 3,000 cases of this wine are aged for eight months in French Oak, and offer great dark fruit on the palate following a violet, raspberry, and herbs on the nose.

Recently, we had the opportunity to sample the Lang and Reed, 2014, Two-Fourteen, Cabernet Franc at our favorite wine bar, Accent on Wine in Summerville.

The Two-Fourteen, which sells for north of $50, is produced entirely from Clone 214, sourced entirely from the Sugarloaf Vineyards located in the southeastern corner of Napa overlooking the ‘northern reaches of San Francisco Bay’. This clone ‘migrated’ to Napa from its source in the Loire Valley of France, an area noted for producing some of the world’s finest Cabernet Franc. The 850 cases of this wine spent 16 months in French Oak and offer raspberry and blueberry elements on the nose that extend through the palate (with the addition of some herbs), and a lingering finish.

The 2014 version of the Lang and Reed Cabernet Franc has 90 (or higher) point ratings from Robert Parker, The Wine Spectator, and The Wine Enthusiast.

Cabernet Franc, according to Master of Wine Jancis Robinson, is one of the two DNA predecessors of Cabernet Sauvignon (along with Sauvignon Blanc), and is believed to have developed in the Loire Valley from cuttings originating in the Basque region, and transported to Loire by the ‘infamous’ Cardinal Richelieu. It is one of the twenty most widely planted varietals and has been historically utilized as a ‘minor’ grape blended with its more elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot relatives in the production of Bordeaux. However, the Loire Valley continues to produce outstanding single varietal Cabernet Franc…look for Chinon. The price of Loire Cabernet Franc is less ($20+) than the U.S. version, but the wine offers softer tannins and would benefit from chilling before serving.

The 1980s saw the greatest growth in California’s Cabernet Franc plantings as winemakers sought a grape that would ‘soften’ the more ‘muscular’ and sometimes less approachable (but more expensive) Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot bottlings.  California producers then determined that Cabernet Franc was ideal to blend with Cabernet (and other varietals) in the creation of a wineries/winemaker’s signature Meritage…Napa’s version of Bordeaux. Eventually, 3,400 acres of Cabernet France were planted in California (largely in Napa and Sonoma). And, finally, California Cabernet Franc is finding traction as a single varietal.

You will often find a few facings of Cabernet Franc stuck amongst ‘other red’s, or beside the more prestigious Cabernet Sauvignon. The Lang and Reed is not the least expensive of the Cab Franc options available, but it is certainly amongst the first, and amongst the best.

There was a time when Chardonnay challenged Cabernet as the king of grapes.

The grape is named for the commune of Chardonnay situated in the Maconnais region and located in the southwest portion of Burgundy. The grape is a ‘half-breed’ – half Pinot Noir and half Gouais Blanc. It is thought to have originated in Croatia, and as the influence of the Roman Empire spread, so did Chardonnay.

The grape is excellent ‘grower’, and farmers loved it. But it was the Cistercian monks are responsible for the its immense popularity. In the 14^th century they blended Chardonnay with its parent Pinot Noir to produce Champagne. Although the initial Champagne was not sparkling the future of the Chardonnay was secure.

Plylloxera nearly eliminated Gouais Blanc, but Chardonnay survived, and through its migration to Australia, The United States and South Africa (amongst many others) grew in popularity. Today it is the fifth most widely planted grape and second white varietal (following the Spanish drought resistant Airén).

By the 1980s Chardonnay had moved to the forefront of the ‘new age of wine’. Multinational wine conglomerates noted the popularity and created wines that appealed to the popularity of sweet drinks and produced heavily oaked and buttery wines with greater residual sugar. The wine was uncomplicated and designed to attract a mass market, it became, as wine writer Jeff Flowers argues, “the wine for people who don’t really like wine”.

However, there was a backlash. The ‘new’ Chardonnay, mass marketed, was associated with the unsophisticated wine drinker and revolted with the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement. These ABC drinkers looked for a wine that crisp and fresh. Winemakers, always attuned to market trends, recognized (and were concerned about) the movement to grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc and sought to model the easy growing Chardonnay in a similar manner.

Thus…unoaked Chardonnay.

Sauvignon Blanc is generally fermented in stainless steel tanks. The problem for winemakers was finding a means of balancing the absence of oak and avoiding the risks associated with wines that are weak and boring on the palate. They also discovered (an apparent surprise to some of them) that good wine requires good grapes. They needed to hold their harvest period until the brix (sugar level) was nearly 24. And, they needed to achieve an ABV above 13.5%. – a wine with ‘guts’.

The ‘new’ Chardonnay was born. Leaner and fruit driven, with little or oak…wines that challenged Sauvignon Blanc.

Neyers 304 Chardonnay is leading the way of these ‘new’ Chards, with a value priced (around $20) classic wine. The winemaker refers to it as “fresh, crisp, and delicately flavored. There is a mineral component and excellent acidity that originates from the fruit. It is a wine that is easy to drink, loaded with character, and enormously satisfying.” Fermented largely in stainless steel (15% in concrete), the winemaker relies only on the yeast that occurs naturally on the skin of the grape. All good decisions…

Neyers Vineyards was formed in 1992 by Bruce and Barbara Neyers with a focus on “small-production wines from top appellations throughout Northern California”. In 2017 the Neyers formed a partnership with Trinchero Estates. Trinchero Estates, developed by brothers Bob and Roger Trinchero made their fame through Sutter Home and the creation of White Zinfandel in 1972. Today, the company’s portfolio includes more than 40 brands (Seaglass, Menage a Trois and the ‘number one alcohol-removed wine, Fre). Trinchero also markets Joel Gott and Charles and Charles wines. The Trinchero family knows how to make, and more importantly, how to market wine.

I had the opportunity to taste the Neyers 304 Chardonnay while at the Fort Walton Beaches Food and Wine Festival. We tasted the 2018 version, that Barbara Neyers calls a “night at the opera”. It is an ideal description…complexity surrounding a simple story. Making a wine without oak interesting to the buying public is an enormous challenge. The Neyers people have figured out how to let the Chardonnay speak with as little manipulation as possible.

You can find it at Chan’s Wine World in the Panhandle region of Florida. A simple internet search suggests that you should be able to acquire this fruit driven wine in virtually every market.

A correction as to location and current organizers …

“Thanks for the mention but is it the South Walton Food & Wine Festival hosted by the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation. It is about 40 miles from Ft. Walton Beach. We are honored to be a part of it.”

Sorry about the errors related to specifics, but the sentiments regarding congratulations on a job extremely well done remain the same.

Congratulations to the folks at Chan’s Wine World who initially organized the Fort Walton Beaches Food and Wine Festival and continue to be a driving force behind this remarkable event.

The final numbers from the auction and festival tally to $3.6 million available for Florida Panhandle region charities. The number represents more than a 30% increase (compared to 2018)  in the charitable giving from this event. Incredible…

Joy and I were honored to both participate and contribute to the 2019 edition.

Far too often a person can get caught up in the seeking the new, the unique, and all to often, the expensive…that ‘person’ often includes me. This ‘uniqueness’ standard certainly applies to wine. Wines that justify consumption must be unearthed in small shops with well-trained staffs and carefully culled collections. After all, if a wine is largely sold in grocery stores and retail chains, just how worthy can it be?

Some of those wine, it turns out…are very good.

This past weekend, during a family gathering to celebrate a niece’s college graduation, I had the opportunity to enjoy, for the first time in years, a glass (or two) of the 2016 Lodi produced, 7 Deadly Zins. Until October 2018 this 300,000-case winery, which started with  700 cases released in 2002, had become America’s most popular Zin by 2015. This wine was initially owned and produced by the Michael David Winery. However, it is now the property of The Wine Group, America’s third largest wine supplier. The Wine Group, formed in 1981, includes Benziger, Concannon, Cupcake, Mogan David and Franzia included amongst their many holdings. There has been no information released concerning the financial terms of the deal.

The name Seven Deadly Zins evolved through the experiences of the winemaker’s and founding brothers Michael and David Phillips “Catholic school upbringing and winemaker’s lust for hedonistically seductive wine”. The name also honored the seven Lodi grape producers whose old-vine Zinfandel was vinified into ‘Seven’ Deadly Zins. The Wine Group indicates that “they are working hard to maintain the grower relationships in Lodi that are currently in place”. They should.

Descendants of fifth-generation winegrowers, the Phillips brothers will now focus on Freakshow, Earthquake, and Petit-Petit (their wonderful blend of Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah). Their 700,000 cases winery has now been reduced to a more manageable 400,000 cases. However, they are expanding their focus and broadening their grape interests. In 2017 they purchased a Geyserville (northern Sonoma) winery from Silver Oak. That winery is currently permitted to produce 70,000 cases of wine. They have also purchased a 12-acre vineyard planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. This purchase may well represent a preview of future Michael-David production.

Lodi, located east of San Francisco and on the northern edge of the San Joaquin Valley, is an American Viticultural Area (AVA) that includes more than 100,000 acres of vines, producing dozens of varietals. However, the region is best known for Old Vine Zinfandel. With a Mediterranean climate (warm days and cool nights) much like that of Chateauneuf du Pape, the region can produce deep flavored and colored wines that will age.

Lodi is also the home of the ‘Lodi Rules Certification’. Created in 2005 the Lodi Rules is a certification process focused on sustainable winegrowing. Seven Deadly Zins was one of few wineries to meet the six rigorous standards; Water Management (conservation); Integrated Pest Management (maintain an environment in which good bugs eat bad bugs); Human Resources (employee training with the goal of job safety, maximized efficiency, and the opportunity for advancement); Air Quality improvement through minimization of dust and the reduction of air pollution; Soil Fertility maintained through proper nutrition; and, Land Stewardship through the preservation of native plants and the protection of wildlife. Hopefully, The Wine Group will continue the ‘Lodi Rules’ certification.

Look for excellent color and medium to full body in a glass of Seven Deadly Zin. There is evidence of dark fruit jam on the nose, that is followed by oak and spice on the palate. The sweet spice of this wine will remain through the long finish.

You should be able to find Seven Deadly Zins for less than $15 in your ‘local grocery store or chain retailer’…as well as fine wine stores everywhere.