There are many myths surrounding the First Thanksgiving.

Thus, let’s begin this post with a few ‘historic’ corrections…

First, and interestingly, the original settlers of Plymouth Colony did not refer to themselves as Pilgrims. Some of the new English transplants called themselves ‘Saints’, and others saw themselves as religious ‘dissidents’. As a whole, they had unsuccessfully attempted to ‘purify’ the Church of England. Seeking religious independence,  the group fled to Holland. And, following an unhappy stay on the European mainland, they returned to England, and almost immediately embarked on the Mayflower for the ‘New World’. William Bradford, one of the Mayflower travelers, first associated the term ‘pilgrimes’ (lower case/Hebrews, Chapter 11 KJV, referring those who traveled for religious purposes) for the settlers . Pilgrim, as a proper name, joined the common vernacular in the 1840s.

For the purposes of a Thanksgiving discussion, we will simply use the term ‘Pilgrims’.

The first ‘Thanksgiving’ was (a real fact) held in 1621, but it was not celebrated every year. Moreover, the specific date of the first ‘Thanksgiving’ is unknown…sometime between the end of September and the middle of November. A ‘Thanksgiving’ (which could last for three days), was only held when residents decided to ‘celebrate’ a particularly successful harvest. However, with Abraham Lincoln’s “appointment of the last Thursday of November” as a day of Thanksgiving “to the ever-watchful providence of Almighty God” for plentiful harvests, the event assumed greater regularity. Although many Americans chose to participate, celebrations were a personal choice and not a national holiday.

In 1939, President Franklin Roosevelt established the third Thursday of November as a day of ‘Thanksgiving’. However, FDR’s motive for the pronouncement was not altruistic. Retailers were concerned that Lincoln’s ‘last Thursday of November’ (November 30 in 1939), would leave very few shopping days before Christmas. They urged Roosevelt to help the economy by moving Thanksgiving back a week. Sixteen states objected to the change and continued to celebrate Thanksgiving on the last Thursday of November. For two years there were two November Thursdays  on which Thanksgiving might be celebrated. The issue was resolved in 1941. A  joint Congressional resolution declared the fourth Thursday of November as both a national day of Thanksgiving and a legal holiday.

But, enough history…

Sadly, the ‘Pilgrims’ did not drink wine. However, the ‘Pilgrims” did enjoy alcoholic beverages. Unfortunately, wine did not travel well, and the Mayflower had landed in the vinifera  poor Northeast.  And, any new vines (even if you could grow vinifera in New England) would be at least three years away from producing something drinkable.

Europeans of the 17th century generally suffered from poor water quality, and they relied on low alcohol beverages as a safer beverage. Thus, the Pilgrims traveled to the New World with beer. However, when they arrived in New England, they faced a serious crisis…they had consumed all of their beer during the westward journey. The travelers attempted to secure beer from the Mayflower’s crew, but the sailors refused the request. They were unwilling to risk a shortage on their return journey.

Critically, there was no barley or hops available. Thus, the new settlers could not brew the beer with which they were familiar. They attempted to use “lips of pumpkins, parsnips, walnut tree chips, and green cornstalks to make their best beer”. The flavor package was not embraced.

Fortunately, there were apples. Apples provide both the sugar and the natural yeast necessary for the natural reproduction of apples, and fortunately, also sufficient sugar and yeast for fermentation. The Pilgrims were able to ferment apple juice into ‘hard cider’. Hard cider was a popular drink in England, and the Pilgrims were familiar with both the drink and the process.

Hard cider is still a Northeastern tradition. Angry Orchard, founded in New York in 2012, fermenting both European and U.S. apples, has captured nearly 50% of the hard cider market. Angry Orchard is owned, ironically, by Massachusetts based Boston Beer Company, the brewers of Sam Adams.

Sadly…no wine.

Wine could not become a regular (or legal) element of the Thanksgiving feast until the end of Prohibition in December of 1933 (thank you, again, Franklin Roosevelt). That, however, is a history for another time.

If your goal is to celebrate in the fashion of the Pilgrims…avoid the turkey (they were not the settler’s bird of choice) and wash down any other fowl with hard cider. However, if you date your Thanksgiving to FDR’s 1941 pronouncement of the holiday, when wine was both legal and available, all options are on the ‘table’.

Whatever your choice of beverage or bird…have a wonderful Thanksgiving from The Vine and Spirits Report.

I reached out to a few friends in retail for suggestions of Thanksgiving wines that would expand the palates of both the knowledgeable and the novice oenophile. The last post focused on wines that retail for $20 or less…this post moves above that price point.

Our friends at Accent on Wine in Summerville and Park Circle (North Charleston), South Carolina,  recommended some interesting whites, including an intriguing Vermentino, but the one that caught my eye was Elizabeth Chamber’s 2016 Pinot Gris. Sadly, winery founder, and veteran Willamette Valley winemaker, Elizabeth Chambers, passed away unexpectedly in 2018, but her legacy of crisp whites and flavorful Pinot Noir continues under the leadership Drew Voit, Chamber’s colleague at Silvan Ridge.

This Pinot Gris, rated at 90 points from the Wine Enthusiast, is “bone dry” and offers excellent minerality along with elements of green fruit that will be wonderful with your Thanksgiving feast. You can find this Pinot Gris for just north of $20.

Accent on Wine also recommends the 2018 Monaco ‘Rosso’. Produced by Danilo Marcucci, the Umbrian leader of the Italian Natural Wine Movement. Following the Natural Wine standards, Marcucci utilizes spontaneous fermentation focused on natural yeasts (instead of cultured yeasts). The 2018 is a blend of Sangiovese (70%), Ciliegiolo (20%), and Aleatico (10%). There is no added sulfur and no filtration.

The Rosso has a medium body and a lingering finish that offers hints of spice on the nose and red fruit on the palate. There are only 2000 bottles available at a $40 price point.

A third recommendation is the 2018 Bainbridge and Cathcart, Cuvée Rouge Aux Lèvresh. You can this secure this French ‘garage’ product of Oklahoma natives, for just north of $30. It offers “smooth tannins and fresh and Juicy garden berries, slightly herbal tones and a gentle touch of pepper”.

Sealed with a crown cap and vinified from 100% Grolleau grown on nearly century old vines, this earthy wine will be excellent with your Thanksgiving dinner.

Chan’s Wine World in the Panhandle region of Florida also has three wonderful options.

You should seek the 2015 Gini La Frosca Soave Classico, a product of Veneto, Italy (94 points from the Wine Enthusiast) for about $30.

The Gini family has been producing wine for more than 400 years. They grow Garganega (this one is 100% Garganega) on nearly 60 acres of volcanic soil, from century old vines, within the Soave Classico appellation. Barrel aged, you will enjoy a wine that is “straw yellow with golden-green reflections. Elegant and complex with mineral notes…and yellow apple, lemon, white peach, almond”. The flavor package will offer an ideal pairing for appetizers and through the main course for those favoring white meat.

A second Wine World recommendation comes from Tendril Cellars. The 2017 Yamhill-Carlton, Williamette Valley, Child’s Play Pinot Chardonnay, earned 91 points from The Washington Wine Blog, and can be found for a price just north of $20.

Tentril, owned by Tony Ryders, who for ten years headed the winemaking team at Domaine Serene, first released a wine in 2008 through the joint effort of Ryders and his wife. The term Child’s Play honors his daughters, whose “artwork is proudly displayed on their labels”.

This unique blend (70% of Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir) spends six months in stainless steel before release. The wine offers a “bright and juicy structure…and offers hints of ripe Asian pear and peach”. The winemaker suggests that the Child’s Play will pair nicely with everything from Manchego cheese to Skittles. The Child’s Play would be a fine way to start Thanksgiving festivities.

Wine World also suggests that you consider the 2016 Manoir du Carra Juliénas Les Bottiè (approximately $20).

Domaine Manoir du Carra, located in the south of Burgundy, in the center of Beaujolais, has been producing wine since the 1850s, and was purchased by Jean Sambardier in 1962. The winery now manages 50 vineyards covering 84 acres, most with 50 to 100 year-old-vines.

The key to this Gamay as an ideal Thanksgiving accompaniment is the soft tannin that the Wine Enthusiast emphasized while awarding 90 points, noting that it is “crisp and structured and offers bright red fruits”. Those bright red fruits will be excellent with any element of the turkey.

Consider serving the Juliénas slightly chilled.

We now turn to our northern friend, Sterling Cellars in Mahopac, New York. Jay Gruber sent a list interesting wines, and I selected three that you might consider.

The 2017 Bedrock Cuvee Katatas Blanc is a $50+ white blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc that Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate awarded 94 points.

Bedrock is just over a decade old, but this Napa based winery already sources its grapes from the finest vineyards and regions of Northern California. However, it is Bedrock’s winemaking pedigree that is most intriguing. Co-Owner and winemaker is Morgan Twain-Peterson, the son of Joel Peterson, the founder of Sonoma’s iconic Ravenswood Winery. Twain-Peterson was raised in the wine industry, and according Bedrock, “was five years old in 1986 when he made his first wine”, a Pinot Noir.

Bedrock sources Semillon from the Monte Rosso Vineyard, and the Wine Advocate suggests that offers “notes of orange marmalade, honeydew melon, jam, quince, white currents and flowers. There is an almost unctuous quality to the texture and super-concentration from these two varieties”. The structure and flavor package that will be an excellent addition to your Thanksgiving table.

You can purchase the second suggestion, a 2017 Stephane Aviron Morgon Cote du Py, for $25.

Sourced from one of Beaujolais most highly regarded terroirs, the sloped vines are biodynamically farmed in volcanic soil. Yields are low, and the grapes produce a highly concentrated flavor package that produces a wine, that according to the Wine Advocate (awarding it 93 points) is “medium to full-bodied, velvety, and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit…with a nicely defined finish”. This would be ideal for the turkey (and sides) course of the Thanksgiving feast.

The third Sterling Cellar recommendation is the 2010 La Rioja Vina Ardanza Reserve Seleccion Especial.

Rated in the mid-90s by virtually every publication, from The Wine Advocate to the Wine Spectator, this $40 Tempranillo, ideal for the main course, is “garnet-red…with a nose of sweet cherries, red currants assembled with notes of black pepper and nutmeg”. It also offers “elegant tannins and a silky finish” (winemaker notes). Enough said…this Tempranillo is certainly worth tracking down.

This post is already longer than I would prefer. However, these wonderful recommendations from New York, South Carolina, and Florida were worthy of more in-depth discussion.

Finally, my preferences…Gruner Veltliner for a white, and Brunello for a red. No specific recommendations, but Sterling Cellars, Accent on Wine, and Chan’s Wine World (and every other worthy retailer) will have excellent options.

Enjoy the hunt…

Thanksgiving is THE American holiday, and it is THE holiday most likely to find wine on the table. And, it is THE meal for which pairings can stress even an experienced wine buyer. This post, however, is geared toward offering advice to the less experienced buyer…those seeking a single wine (a difficulty) that will pair with a myriad of sides (as well as the turkey) and will stay within their often limited budget. This can be a taunting task.

Thanksgiving will require two posts from me. This one is focused on an All-American lineup (with one required exception) and will offer suggestions of  varietals at or below the $20 price point. The following post will discuss unique wines recommended by a few of our favorite retailers, but at price points that exceed $20.

We begin this post, however, with the exception to the All-American lineup. Beaujolais Nouveau. This ‘young’ French import is the first vinified Gamay wine of any Beaujolais vintage. For many years you could anticipate newspaper photos of wine ‘connoisseurs’ toasting the ‘long anticipated’ arrival of the ‘first’ cases of the Nouveau (generally in New York) just after midnight on the third Thursday of November. Actually, Beaujolais Nouveau, from virtually every producer, had been delivered to wine shops nationwide much earlier. By tradition, however, the new wine cannot be displayed, or sold, until 12:01 am on the third Thursday of November. And, while there are many producers of Beaujolais nouveau, Georges Duboeuf and Joseph Drouhin are both excellent options. Many of these wines are available nationally for less than $15.

Keep in mind that these bottles are not created with aging in mind. It is wise to consume  your Beaujolais Nouveau by New Year’s Day. The fresh and pleasant acidity that is characteristic of the young Gamay vanishes within a few months.

Now for discussion of the main event…the meal…beginning with the most common centerpiece. Turkey, like much fowl, is a challenge because it offers both light and dark meat. Simply, white wines work with white meat and red wines are ideal for the darker meats of the bird. You can resolve the white/dark meat issue with a bottle of a white and a bottle of a red suggested below. The bird and wine is pretty easy, the sides often complicate wine decisions. More about wine options for turkey below.

Potatoes and vegetables generally pair well with every wine listed below.

A warning…one vegetable to avoid from the wine perspective…asparagus. Asparagus overwhelms white wines with a ‘grassy’ element and offers enough resident sulfur to give red wines a metallic (and occasionally bitter) edge.

If you are committed to asparagus, there is only one wine choice that is safe. Bubbly. The acidity of Champagne is ideal and certainly adds a festive flair.

Three Sparkling options:

The Soter 2018 Planet Oregon Rosé Bubbles is excellent. Or, consider California Sofia Brut Rosé. Finally, Scharffenberger NV Brut Excellence Methode Traditionelle. All American wines, and all are excellent.

For appetizers consider the sparkling wines suggested above. All other wine recommendations follow the meal discussion.

Soup: Often a difficult pairing. A Sauvignon Blanc would work with a creamy soup (including tomato), but for a thinner soup, like chicken noodle, consider Pinot Noir.

Salad: I find Sauvignon Blanc works well with tomato-based salads and for salads that include goat/cow-based cheeses. Blue Cheese, however, is another difficult pairing. It is pungent and earthy, and I would avoid using this cheese with your Thanksgiving salad. However, the pungent tones of Blue Cheese work wonderfully with port…consider offering a cheese course.

Returning to the turkey discussion…

If the focus is on white meat, your guests (or you) would enjoy either a Gewurztraminer or a semi-sweet (or medium-dry) Riesling. If the focus is darker meats, consider Pinot Noir, Syrah, or Zinfandel.

White recommendations:

Sauvignon Blanc – Seaglass, Central Coast, 2018; Lapis Luna, North Coast, 2018; Josh Cellars, North Coast, 2018

Riesling – Lobo Hills Columbia Valley, 2018; Fess Parker, Santa Barbara, 2018; Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cold Creek Vineyard, 2018

Gewurztraminer – Pacific Rim, Ramos Vineyard, 2017; Hyland, Old Vine Willamette Vineyard, 2017; Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes, Reserve, 2017

Red recommendations:

Pinot Noir – Angeline, Reserve, 2017; La Crema, Sonoma Coast, 2017; Stoller Family Estate, Dundee Hills, 2017

Syrah – Waterbrook, Columbia Valley, 2017; J. Lohr, South Ridge, 2016

Zinfandel – Klinker Brink, Old Vines, 2016; Plungerhead, Lodi, 2016; Cline, Ancient Vines, 2017

And, if you are committed to one of the ‘standards’…consider

Chardonnay – Sean Minor, Central Coast, 2018; Rodney Strong, Sonoma County, 2017

Cabernet Sauvignon – J. Lohr, Seven Oaks, 2017; Layer Cake, Bourbon Barrel Aged, 2016

These wines are available in virtually every state.

You do not need to have a sampling of wine from every category. Select one good white and one good red (and maybe a sparkling to start).

What about dessert? Most of dessert wines are expensive, and there are few United States produced dessert wines. However, if your ‘sweet finisher’ is fruit based, consider Bonny Doon’s Pacific Rim Vin de Glaciere Organic Riesling (375ML). Or, you can safely return to sparkling wine.

Finally, following a mantra that Joy and I have always followed…drink what you like! Wines do not need to pair perfectly with every dish. Wine needs only to be enjoyed.

The next post will focus on some unique wines, many of which are not of U.S. origin.