Our friends at Accent on Wine introduced us to the unique 2016 Elian Da Ros, Le Vin Est Une Fete from Cotes-du-Marmandais in the south of France. It was both enlightening and delightful.

I had no experience with either the wine or the region. I had never heard of Abouriou, the primary grape of Marmandais, nor could I have easily pointed to Marmandais on a map. My failure to know anything about this grape could be explained that there are over 10,000 varieties of wine grapes in the world of which nearly 1,400 are vinified, and knowing them all would be a challenge, and tasting them a virtual impossibility. It could also be explained that of those more than 10,000 varieties, just 10 dominate vineyard plantings around the world. Those 10 varieties demand a lion’s share of the study associated with wine.

There are an estimated 18 million acres of cultivated vineyards worldwide. Of those 18 million acres, only 800 are producing Abouriou. Most of those vineyards are in the south of France (with a few in acres in California), and most of those vineyards (although Abouriou is noted for its vigorous growth), are controlled for very low yields. A medium yield for a vineyard is considered five tons per acre, Abouriou producers restrict their yields to as little as 1 ½ tons per acre. Doing the math, the maximum number of Abouriou cases produced would be less than 60,000. By comparison between 90-100 million cases of Cabernet Sauvignon are produced each year.

In many ways Abouriou should be attractive grape for growers. The grapes ripen early and has a reduced risk of mildew and other diseases. The grape also is also known for being successfully cultivated in cool sites. However, the variety has so little following that nearly half of Abouriou vineyards were replanted to other varietals between 2007 and 2011. Those vineyards that remain are largely farmed and harvested by cooperatives.

Generally blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, Fer, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot to produce varieties of the Cotes du Marmandais, it is also vinified in small quantities as a single varietal. Plant scientists, studying the DNA of grape vines, have determined that Abouriou is either “a half-sibling or grandparent” to Malbec and Merlot. However, Abouriou as a varietal offers neither the depth of Mabec, nor the fruit forward elements of Merlot.

The California version of the grape, largely planted in the Russian River Valley, ripens early in the harvest season, and is often referred to as New Burgundy. Planted initially by Giuseppe Martinelli (the scion of the Martinelli Winery…better known for Zinfandel), those Abouriou vines are still in use today. The grapes are now largely the responsibility of Darak Trowbridge and his Sonoma Old World Winery. Trowbridge produces biodynamic ‘field blends’ of natural wines that “are singular expressions if the winemaker, the grapes and the land”. Old World Wines are available through their website or from smaller California retail outlets.

The dark-skinned grape offers low acidity, high levels of tannin, spice on the nose, and a tart element on the palate.

The Accent on Wine version of the wine adds Cabernet Franc and Merlot to the blend, and their notes accurately suggest that you will find plum, pomegranate and cherries on the nose. You will find rhubarb and strawberries both on the palate and through the medium finish.

Elian Da Ros is considered the ‘father of Marmandais wines”. He developed his winery in 1998 following five years working with the extraordinary Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace. Upon his return to the south of France, his father gifted him five hectares planted with vineyards with grapes that were largely destined for local wine cooperatives. Today, Elian and his wife Sandrine, now biodynamically farm and vinify grapes from 22 hectres.

The winery uses native yeasts for fermentation and after experimenting with a variety of aging processes, ultimately settled on eight-foot-tall amphoras made ‘from a mix of concrete, clay, and sand’ named ‘Drunk Turtles’ for his white wines. Red wines are aged in concrete eggs and concrete tanks as well as oak barrels.

However, do not get too excited about tracking down Abouriou. You could find it in select French wine shops, and from a few retailers in the U.S. (including Accent on Wine). And, should you be unable to locate an Abouriou, ask a trusted wine specialist to recommend another wine vinified from a grape outside of the ‘big six’. Trust the retailer to guide you, and your palate to inform you.

That brings us to a conversation about why there is so little  Abouriou available, and to the concept of endangered species…”an animal or plant that is seriously at risk of extinction”.  Risk of extinction includes grapes.

Stay tuned…