Many of you may be wondering why I chose to blog about a grape, Assyrtiko, and a winemaker, Alexakis, from a region, Crete, that is a ‘regular’ on your consumption rotation. Just kidding…but the post does suggest that there are many delicious and unique wines/grapes worth considering.

I recently posted a two-part examination of  the ‘vanishing grape syndrome’ and risk to the wine industry.  As you may recall,  most consumers seek bottles produced from the ‘six classic’ French varietals…Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Thus,  not surprisingly, most consumers are also reluctant to experiment with wines vinified from other indigenous grapes. The result…consumer choices narrow as those indigenous varietals disappear. The six classic French grapes (and a few their friends) are now the foundation of more than 70% of the world’s bottled wines.  Also, not surprisingly, you will find far fewer bottles of the fresh and refreshing Assyrtiko, a Mediterranean original, then Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

A paragraph of wine history. The initial growth in varietal options and vinfication processes is credited to the Minoans, who developed a robust Mediterranean trading culture, and in the process spread a culture of wine.  There are ancient wine presses in the vicinity of the Alexakis’ vineyards that can be traced to the Bronze Age of the Minoans.

The appreciation of wine may be traced to the Minoans,  but the Assyrtiko grape is a recent arrival to the Mediterranean basin. The modern varietal was created in 1983 by oenologist Aggelos Rouvalis for the Santorini Wine Co-op  grape.

Santorini is an island northeast of Crete (the location where we find the Alexakis version of the wine), and “one of the most expensive places in the world to grow grapes”. The goal of grape growers is to “keep the vine close to the ground, where it can take advantage of what little moisture morning mists provide as recompense for the lack of rainfall. Irrigation is prohibitively expensive—and technically illegal—but young vines may be equipped with drip lines for four or five years.” Keeping the vines low to ground also reduces the risk of ‘grape sunburn’. Santorini is an area attractive to tourists (who drink only bottled water), but nature conspires against grapes.

According to Decanter Magazine, the Cyclades islands,  Santorini neighbors, are truly the center of the Assyrtiko ‘universe’. The grape “covers 65% of its vineyard area, where many vines are ungrafted, and vary in age from 60 to 250 years”.

The soil of the region is volcanic ash. Thus, the soil is rich, and the grapes produced are acclaimed for their excellent minerality.  The climate offers maritime humidity and fog, and an annual rainfall average of less than 14 inches per year. These are grapes that would be considered ‘stressed’.

Over the past quarter century Assyrtiko has migrated from  Santorini  to Crete and the Greek mainland (as well as Australia). Vines on the Greek mainland are trellised to increase yields.

The Alexakis Assyrtiko is a product of Crete’s largest privately-owned winery. Owned by “chemical engineer turned winemaker” Stelios Alexakis, the operation is now a family activity. Stelios’ wife Sofia is responsible for ‘quality control’ and his children, ‘who literally grew up in the winery’, have grown into winemakers and are now planning for the winery’s future. Over the years the family has “collaborated with all of the winemakers on the island” and have drawn on their extensive understanding of the land and the climate to produce “some of the highest quality wines in Crete”.

The 1200 case production of Alexakis 100% Assyrtiko is harvested from vineyards planted at 2,000 feet above sea level in sandy soil that is rich in calcium. The grapes are hand-harvested, generally during the second week of August, and often at night to avoid the heat of the day. The grapes are then chilled for 24 hours before destemming and get an eight-hour soaking in a cold tub. The winery utilizes gravity processes and then ferments the free-run juice using ambient (natural) yeast.

The Alexakis Assyrtiko is unoaked and is bottled for months before release.

Look for crisp apple and saline on the nose and excellent acidity that extends from the palate through the lingering finish.

This would be an wonderful accompaniment to shellfish. Consider the Assyrtiko as an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc.

While there are limited bottles of this wine imported, you can find it in most major markets (including New York and Charleston, SC…Accent on Wine) for less than $20.

You should seek new flavors and new grapes…the Assyrtiko would be a good place to start.