Puglia is in the southeast corner of along the heel of the boot and wedged between the Adriatic Sea and the Gulf of Taranto. The region is hot and very dry (particularly in the summer). There are, on average, 300 sunny days each year, and mid-summer temperatures often exceed 100˚. High temperatures is great for growing grapes with intense flavors.
If you desire to manage a vineyard with a growing season offering both the length and heat to generate sufficient brix (sugar) to vinify wines with high alcohol…Puglia is your place. However, Puglia for many centuries was a region noted for the production of lower quality/high alcohol ‘bulk wines’ that were largely destined for a jug. Regional websites note that the “wines were rugged, rough and deeply colored, and not of high quality”. Fortunately, Puglia had an excellent reputation for olive oil. The region, in fact, produces 50% of Italy’s olive oil.
Locals liked their wine…but virtually no one outside of Puglia did.
Things began to change in the late 20th century. Traditional growers and winemakers were slowly replaced by ‘modernist producers’. And, the Italian government has recognized the effort.
Italy offers quality wines one of three designations. The best wines, nearly 75 of them, are labeled with DOCG. There are strict rules and regulations and the wines must demonstrate a consistent level of quality. There are approximately 330 wines that are permitted to include DOC on their label. While these wines are checked to assure quality, the ‘rules and regulations’ are less stringent. Finally, there are wines labeled IGT. This is the least “strictly-defined categorization of appellated wines in Italy”. However, many IGT wines are outstanding, including collectible Super Tuscans.
How about Puglia?
Salice Salentino is a DOC established in 1976. Puglia now has 25 DOCs, but no regional wines have yet to earn DOCG status. And, only 2% of the region’s wines have yet to achieve DOC status.
Most wines from Puglia are red. Limited whites wines, following the global demand, are mostly Chardonnay. “The wines of Salice Salentino are fruit forward. They have a bit of spice to them and a bit of sweetness form the ripeness of the fruit with lots of lush cherry and red berry flavors. They are easy to drink and not wines that require contemplation”. These are wines that you don’t have to think about…just enjoy… a refreshing idea.
Drink them young (five to seven years) and enjoy them with virtually anything from the grill.
Let’s talk for a few lines about the Salice Salentino Riserva, Suavitas, Ionis.
Ionis begins with Dr. Giulio Palmisano who established a 1970s firm to focus on the international sale of Puglia’s bulk wines. However, a decade ago his sons joined the firm and the company shifted from bulk exports to the production of outstanding regional wines.
Cooperative growers across the region allow Ionis to choose the best grapes from more than 20,000 acres of Puglia’s vineyards. Ionia carefully picks and destems, and then ferments in temperature-controlled tanks. The family ages their wine in barrels produced from both American and French oak. While they must age for 24 months to permit labeling as a Riserva, they have as the winery reports, “a non-established period of time because the modern winemaking technology relies on chemical, physical, and sensorial analysis of a product to establish how much time wine must refine in the barriques”.
Vinified from a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia (introduced to the region by Greek explorers/settlers), the Malvasia “soften the wine’s tannins and offers some aromatic qualities”.
This is a ruby red wine that offers excellent balance and hints of both vanilla on the nose and elements of chocolate and red-berries on the nose. The red berry and chocolate tones carry through the lingering finish.
You should find this wine nationwide (Accent on Wine in the Charleston/Summerville area) for north of $22.00
You might also consider Sterling Cellar’s Castillo Monaci, a Negroamaro in the $14 range. Or Cantale Salice Salentino available nationwide for less than $12. Both of these wines are excellent representatives of Puglia.