The Etruscans introduced wine to the region, and the Romans continued to grow and produce excellent wine, but for many of us Chianti conjures memories of a squat straw covered bottle. In the early 1970s the package was much more interesting than the wine. However, the bottle did make a marvelous candleholder.
There are a few Chianti producers that continue to utilize the straw ‘basket’ (officially called a fiasco). Total Wines offers Bellini Chianti, and you can still find Opici Chianti in a few retail settings.
Obviously, regardless of the bottle’s appearance, the focus of this post is the rich red wine that originates in Chianti wine region of central Tuscany. And, although the first wine labeled Chianti was first produced in the early 18th century, it was not until the middle of the 19th century that the Baron Bettino Ricasoli codified the Chianti ‘recipe’ with the focus on Sangiovese. By the 1930s the style had become so popular that the Chianti region was divided into seven ‘sub-regions’ to better identify quality.
The largest of these newly defined regions was Chianti Classico. Chianti Classico became so popular that the region developed a ‘personal mascot’…the black rooster. The rooster’s origins are rooted in the Medieval period, during a struggle between the city-states of Florence and Siena (these two cities disliked each other so intensely that they fought wars) over territorial expansion and control.
A race between horseback riders (the Florentine rider was awakened by a black rooster) resulted in Florence acquiring a larger share of the territory. That territory included Chianti. Thus…the black rooster gained status as the mascot of both the region and its wine. You will find the black rooster prominently displayed on the neck tax label attached to bottles of Chianti Classico.
The Baron Ricasoli’s original formula for Chianti has varied little over the past 175 years. Any wine labeled Chianti must now contain at least 80% Sangiovese and aged for four to seven months In 1995 it became legal to produce a Chianti from 100% Sangiovese. For a wine to have ‘Riserva’ attached it must be aged for a minimum of 38 months. You may run across a few wines labeled Chianti Superiore…these wines meet more rigorous standards of “lower yield and higher alcohol”.
And, then there are the Super Tuscans. Piero Antinori developed a wine labeled Tignanello (Sangiovese with some non-indigenous grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc). The wine was an immediately hit with consumers and now commands north of $120. Not surprisingly, many other winemakers followed suit. The ‘Super Tuscan’ is an unofficial Italian wine category, but it is the most expensive expression of Sangiovese.
As much as I enjoy Super Tuscans (the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon appeals to my ‘sweet spot’), the focus of this post is an old Chianti friend, Monsanto.
Aldo Bianchi is a native of San Gimignano. San Gimignano is a beautiful walled city located in the Tuscan province of Siena. With a population of less than 8,000 San Gimignano has been long noted for the production of a dry and crisp white wine vinified from Vernaccia.
Bianchi left for the northern regions of Italy before World War II but returned in 1960 for a wedding and fell in love with Castello di Monsanto and its views of the towers of San Gimignano. Aldo may have enjoyed the views, but his son Fabrizio enjoyed the regions wines. In 1962 Fabrizio created the first Monsanto Chianti Classico.
Through the next half century Monsanto led Chianti to embrace innovations in vinification and vineyard management. They employed stainless steel fermenters, Slovenian oak replaced Chestnut, and recently the increased use of truncated cones for fermentation.
I would strongly recommend that you track down the 2015 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva. Rated at 92-96 points, you will enjoy a full bodied and dark wine with a wonderful mouthfeel and tannins that would benefit from some softening in the glass. Look for red cherry and earth tones on the nose, joined by black current on the palate and through the lingering finish.
You can find the Monsanto for around $20 nationwide. If you are seeking a less expensive option, consider the 2017 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico for less than $15.