Americans have long enjoyed sparkling wine. In fact, recent reports suggest that Americans appear to be really enjoying sparkling wines. In the past decade there has been a 50% increase in the consumption of all sparkling wine. Following that trend, 2018 sales showed a 5% increase in sparkling bottles/cans sold. Sparkling wine now claims nearly 7% of all U.S. wine consumption. And, consumers have clearly decided that sparklers can be enjoyed year-round.
This growth is remarkable, especially given the ‘reports’ of physical risks associated with the opening of sparkling wine bottles. In fact, there are ‘internet stories’ indicating that as many as 24 individuals have been killed by corks propelled by Carbon Dioxide released by opening a sparkling wine. Such carnage perpetrated by the simple act of opening a bottle should be very big news…if it was true. Nope…it is not true. Don’t believe everything you read on the ‘internet of all things’.
There is significant pressure within a sparkling wine bottle (that is why they are so thick) created by the Carbon Dioxide that are also responsible for those attractive bubbles. There is 70-90 PSI generated inside that thick bottle. A sparkling wine cork can be propelled at nearly 24 MPH. However, there is no credible evidence that anyone has lost their life through an unfortunate interaction with a sparkling cork (including the recent report of a Chinese ‘robber barons’ demise). Nevertheless, you should be cautious when opening a bottle of sparkling wine. Grip the the cork firmly, and slowly turn the bottle. And, be sure to hold the bottle at an angle away from you…and, of course, away from all breakable items.
Risks and warnings aside, this post is dedicated to Crémants, and specifically a Crémant de Bordeaux. Sparkling wine from Bordeaux?Yep. The home of the world’s most expensive Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends is ironically the home to reasonably priced and very approachable sparkling wines.
Let’s start with the concept of Crémant. Although the term originated in the Champagne region, since 1985 the term is no longer used on ‘Champagne’. And, non-Champagne produced sparkling wines, prompted by lobbying by Champagne region producers, are no longer to permitted to include the terms Champagne or ‘methode champenoise’ on their labels. You may find a few non-European producers (those who do not export sparkling wine to the European Union) continuing to print ‘methode champenoise’, or the Champagne on their label. There are very few vintners still using the terms.
Back to Crémant, “From 1985 on, the word designates sparkling wines from other French regions made using the traditional second fermentation in bottle method”.
There are eight regions of France permitted to produce Crémant. And, there are common regulations required of producers including hand harvesting; restricting the quantity of juice to 100 liters from pressing 150 kg of grapes; limitations on dosage; and aging for a minimum for nine months on lees, followed by three months before release to market.
Alsace produces more than 50% of French Crémant, but most consumers are surprised that Bordeaux is one of the eight producing regions. There are, however, only 250 acres of Bordeaux vineyards devoted to the vinification of sparkling wines. And, although Crémant has been produced in Bordeaux since the early 19th century, the appellation was only recognized in 1990.
There is no restriction on the grapes used to produce Crémant, and most regions use vinifera successfully grown in that region. Bordeaux, not surprisingly, ferments Merlot “along with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Malbec, Petite Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and/or Muscadelle”.
The term Crémant is French for ‘creamy’. Known for tight and persistent bubbles, you will find many of the mineral and floral aromas that you have come to enjoy in Champagne.
Our friends at Accent on Wine recently hosted an excellent tasting (at the spectacular Woodlands in Summerville). They introduced us to the Bordeaux Crémant, Castel’s Cru de la Maqueline. The price was excellent ($14) and so was the wine.
There are only 6,000 bottles in the first vintage of Cru de la Maqueline available, but it is worth tracking down one of them. The Maqueline is blended primarily from Merlot, with the addition of a little Petit Verdot. The bubbles are tight, you will find floral hints on the nose, and bright fruit through the palate and the finish. Again, an excellent wine at an excellent value.
The producers plan on a significant increase in production…we certainly hope they do.
Another option.
One of our…and I suspect many of you… enjoy Gruet, a sparkling wine produced in New Mexico (yes…New Mexico!) . Gruet has created a custom label…Jacqueline Leonne Rose. This is a wine that you will usually find only at Total Wines. There are a few clever retailers who can secure this sparkler. You should find it for less than $15.
The fruit is soft, the bubbles tight, the price is right…a great wine with which to welcome the New Year (or a celebration of the old).
Even if you can’t find a Crémant from Bordeaux, there are other excellent versions of this sparkler. Ask your favorite retailer.