The weather in the Low Country is already warming. And, hopefully, warming trends are on the near horizon for our friends in the North. However, regardless of the temperature, it is time for an ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) conversation. And, some of you may also be looking for an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. Thus, let’s talk about Grüner Veltliner.
You will most likely find Grüner Veltliner in Austria (nearly 33% of total vineyard plantings) and also with more than 10% of Czech vines. There are also a few of these food-friendly grapes in the New World (Massachusetts, Oregon, Maryland, the North Fork of Long Island, New York’s Finger Lakes, Napa, Ohio, and etc.). Australia has also started to vinify this popular restaurant wine-list product. There are 50,000 acres of Grüner Veltliner exist world wide…75% in Austria. Most of these vines produce large yields requiring control to maintain quality.
The term Grüner Veltliner first appeared in the mid-19th century. Nevertheless, the Austrians did not take the grape seriously, and only began training the vines until the late 1940s. By the 1950s it had become “Austria’s most planted variety”. The Austrian government eventually “designated the vine as a protected natural monument”.
“Many of the wines are highly mineral and pure – reflecting the gravel and lack of soil”. The bottles are usually green, but the fluid is usually a very pale green. Traditionally dry, you will find citrus, lime, lemon, and grapefruit (with a hint of white pepper). The flavor package explodes in your mouth “like pop rocks”. Grüner Veltliner is generally released with less than 2 years of aging, and the ABV is often below 12.5%. Don’t be surprised to find bottles secured with a screwcap (we will discuss this later). And, this is a white wine that will age well.
“That remarkably high acidity will mask any sweet notes. And it even leads to just a hint of effervescence in some bottles”. However, don’t be surprised if you find some nut and cream in the flavor palate in these full-bodied wines.
A couple of options…
The 2017 Weingut Hirsch, an organic product, comes from a winery owned by by the same family since 1878 and housed in a structure that was originally constructed during the 16th century’s High Renaissance. Now managed by Johannes Hirsch who represents the fifth generation of the family. Originally, the Hirsch family engaged in mixed agriculture (grapes with other crops). The focus on viticulture began with Johanne’ father, Josef, in the late 1970s when he took responsibility for a little more than six acres of vineyards from his father.
Josef eventually acquired additional acreage, in 1996, at fourteen, Johannes joined the ‘firm’. In 1999, at the “height of the red boom” they removed the red wine varieties and focused on Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. Good decision.
You should be able to track this stainless-steel matured wine (now in the 2018 juicy vintage with hints of white pepper spice) for around $20 a bottle. This is an excellent wine.
A second option, the 93 rated Wine Enthusiast 2018 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Federspiel is another Austrian “lightly peppery white has plenty of fresh zest coupled with ripe melon smith”. You should find this one for less than $18.
Enjoy Grüner Veltliner with everything from asparagus to tacos. I enjoy it as a starter for virtually every meal. The crisp elements of the wine work with salad and cheese and simply on its own