Things change…

I tend to emotionally assign grapes to regions. Albarino originates from Spain, Port from Portugal, and Roussanne is, or should be, from the Rhone. The problem with this approach is that American winemakers would be limited to Concord, Catawba, and Norton (plus a few other unfortunate cousins). Reliance grapes on those grapes would certainly have altered our wine culture. Grapes can, of course, grow in like climates and similar soil, regardless of the boundaries established by political entities rather than nature. Thank goodness…

Joy and I were recently introduced to Kivelstadt Cellars 2018 Mother of Invention with grapes from Mendocino County, California. You would most likely find this organically produced blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Roussanne in the southern Rhone. These grapes are regular blending partners, and they are also difficult grapes to grow. Roussanne is susceptible to disease, produces low yields, and is at risk of oxidation during fermentation. Marsanne is slightly less temperamental but requires carefully control in the vineyard (too hot…wines are flabby; too cold…the grapes don’t ripen).

In the Rhone Valley, Roussanne is the primary grape in the production of the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and was introduced to California in the 1980s by Randall Graham of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Graham smuggled (no cuttings are permitted into California without inspection by the California agricultural authorities…Graham’s cuttings entered in a suitcase in order to bypass authorities). Graham, one of the original ‘Rhone Rangers’, successfully grafted his smuggled cuttings, and in the early 1990s sold his own cuttings to Sonoma Grapevine, one of California’s largest nurseries. Sonoma Grapevine eventually sold Graham’s suitcase cuttings across the state.

Both Roussanne and Marsanne result in wines that are rich and dry. They both present elements of pear and nut. The Roussanne is floral with hints of herbs on the nose and white pepper on the palate through the finish. Marsanne, usually a blending grape, adds citrus and orange to the flavor package. Both of these grapes can produce high alcohol, but the Mother of Invention comes in at just over 13%. The combination produces an excellent wine with which to start the evening or with white meats.

Kivelstadt Cellars (initially named Pavo Estates and two years later renamed Qualia Wines) is a relatively new winery. Nancy Kivelson and Tom Angstadt purchased a steep and rocky vineyard estate outside of Glen Ellen in Sonoma in 2005. The 10 acres of organically farmed grapes is now managed by their son Jordan (his last name a blending of his parents last names). The yield range is from 1.5 to 2.5 tons per acre (much lower than the 3 to 5 tons per acre that is considered optimal).

The temperatures around Glen Ellen are very much like those of the northern Rhone. Thus, not surprisingly Jordan, who had visited the Rhone during a wine making and learning journey, focused on the original Rhone grape…Syrah.

He vinified and aged his 125 cases of Estate Syrah at the Dogpatch Wineworks in the eastern San Francisco neighborhood of Dogpatch. Dogpatch, once a mix of industry and full-time residents, has become one of The Bay Cities ‘coolest neighborhoods’. But, the romance between Kivelstadt and Dogpatch was not destined to last.

Kivelstadt Cellars, now named for its winemaker, has (or will soon) relocate to downtown Sonoma. It will soon be housed in a former grille that will (within a month or so) house the winery, the tasting room (currently in Glen Ellen) and a restaurant. Kivelstadt envisions a ‘wine garden’ immersing guests in a total wine experience.

That original 125 case output has expanded to 3,500 and has added a 330 case production with those grapes sourced in Mendocino, to vinify the crisp and fruit forward Rhone-style Mother of Invention.

Aged in neutral French oak following fermentation with natural yeasts, this is a wine that offers excellent acidity. You will find soft elements of melon on the nose and hints of apple and honey surrounded by “fresh picked white flowers”.

As noted earlier, this is a wonderful wine with which to start a meal, but don’t serve it too cold…let it warm to open the flavor package.

Not surprisingly, with only 330 cases, the Mother of Invention (which sells for around $25) is not widely available. Interestingly, there are very few Marsanne/Roussanne blends. You could order the Cairdeas 2018 Nellie Mae White from the winery ($24). You could also look for the Kita 2018 Taya Camp 4 Vineayrd White. The Kita adds 4% Grenache Blanc to the primary grapes.

Tablas Creek makes a many more widely distributed white Rhone blends. However, the Tablas Creek white Rhone blends are not restricted to Marsanne and Roussanne. Check with your local wine shop for their suggestions.

Try white Rhone with poultry and seafood.