As the United States resumed wine importation following Prohibition, importers, distributors, shops, restaurants, and consumers primarily sought Bordeaux and Burgundy. Italian wines were rarely considered. Italian wines generally offered little quality and earned little respect. Unlike French wines, there were no enforceable standards for Italian wines, there was little consistency, and there were virtually no exports. The U.S. viewed Italian wines through the lens of Italian Swiss Colony (vinifed in Sonoma, California in a 500,000 cistern), sweet Lambrusco, and Chianti notable largely for its straw covered bottle that was coveted as a candle holder.
In the mid-20th century the Italian government began to establish rigorous standards for both wine production and quality. Once consistency was assured and the quality improved, Italian wines were aggressively marketed, and tourists touted the vineyards quality. Vintners Angelo Gaja and Pierro Antinori became ‘rock stars’ of the wine universe. Exports quickly grew. Tuscany was ‘discovered’ as a wine attraction comparable to its culture.
Tuscany is truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. The vistas are breathtaking, the history intriguing, the food wonderful, and today’s wines taste of a commitment to the region’s history, to it’s flavors, and to representing the extraordinary terroir.
The grape that defines Tuscany is Sangiovese. More than 60% of the vineyards are planted with the varietal. The region’s winemakers believe that Sangiovese was originally planted by the Etruscans as early as the 2nd century, but it was only by the late 16th century that it was both identified by its contemporary name, and as the literature of that period correctly suggested, with proper care the grape could produce a very fine wine.
Sangiovese is grown in Argentina and California, Australia, and Chile, but it is in Tuscany that it is king. Virtually every Tuscan red wine of consequence is produced from Sangiovese. Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, and of course, Brunello are all products of Sangiovese.
A Chianti must contain at least 80% Sangiovese with the distinction between Chianti and Chianti Riserva being the length of time the wine spends in barrel. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano must contain 70% Sangiovese to earn DOCG status. Rosso di Montalcino, often referred to as a ‘baby Brunello’, requires 100% Sangiovese, but is aged for only one year before release. The Rosso spends only six months in oak.
And then there is Brunello.
Brunello is to Sangiovese what Barolo is to Nebbiolo, First Growth Bordeaux to Cabernet and Merlot, and Burgundy to Pinot Noir.
Brunello’s standards were established in the 1860s, but the quality was not assured until 1980 with the DOCG approval. Brunello is also produced from 100% Sangiovese, and then must be aged for a minimum of two years in oak and another two years in bottle before release. A Brunello Riserva requires an additional year of bottle aging before it is released. Some winemakers choose to extend their Brunello’s stay in oak for a third year.
The Italian government, recognizing the export potential for wine, established quality standards for specific styles of wine with those bottles labeled as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) representing the highest quality. There are now more than 70 Italian wine styles that may be labeled DOCG.
That brings us to the recently released 2015 vintage…. referred to, by some reviewers, as ‘great’. As with many great vintages the 2015 Brunello (not the Riserva) is compared to those ‘great’ vintages that preceded it…1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2006, and 2010. All of them rated by reviewers like The Wine Spectator as mid to high 90s for the entire vintage.
It may be premature to rate the 2015 as one of the ‘great’ vintages. However, our experience with the 2015 Brunello has been uniformly pleasant.
A favorite is Caprili.
One of the earliest organized estates in Montalcino, Caprili was founded in 1965. At the time, there were then less than 20 estates in the region. There are now more than 200 Tuscan wine estates.
The Bartolommei family has been producing Caprili Tuscan wines through four generations, and have developed a reputation for consistent quality and excellent value. They produce roughly 60,000 bottles each vintage. Nearly 40,000 of those bottles are Brunello. The Caprili Brunello is aged for three years in oak.
The 2015, selling nationally for around $50, has been very well received. The Wine Spectator, James Suckling, and Vinous gave it a 95. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and the Wine Enthusiast awarded the 2015 a 93.
The critics agree that it was one of the finest wines of the vintage and is one of the best values. They extol its deep cherry and raspberry flavor package. We enjoyed the velvet mouthfeel of a wine with well-integrated tannin. The finish is lingering. It is a wine ready to drink now.
You are unlikely to find much 2015 Rossi di Montalcino. However, there are some excellent options for these less expensive ‘Baby Brunello’ from more recent vintages. The Rosso will generally be lighter and will offer slightly greater acidity in a balanced flavor package that is an excellent accompaniment to white sauce pastas, and meat and cheese starters.
You can find a 2016 Mocali Rosso di Montalcino for around $20. The 2018 Caparzo di Montalcino is another under $20 excellent option. Both wines can be found nationwide.