How about an excellent Barolo for $40? If the price and the style are of interest to you then track down the 2014 Oddero. Following the rule that wonderful wines do not always receive wonderful scores, this Barolo earned an 88 (very low) from the Wine Enthusiast while the vintage received an 89 from Robert Parker. We had an opportunity to taste the Oddero to accompany a wonderful meal of gnocchi with lobster (me), and scallops (Joy) at Tradd’s, a new and excellent Charleston eatery on East Bay Street. The score is too low…
The 2014 vintage was difficult in Piedmont. The region had a stormy summer that was fortunately followed by an excellent September (perfect for harvest). While many winemakers struggled, others were able to vinify elegant wines. The Oddero DOCG is an excellent example of a successful effort.
Keep in mind that the DOCG designation is an indication of highest Italian quality. In the mid-20th century, Italian winemaker’s had difficulty placing their product in the world market. Consumers sought a means by which to determine quality. The Italian government ultimate developed a three-level identification process (IGT, DOC, DOCG). DOCG wines must meet rigorous standards and pass taste tests administered by government licensed specialists, and finally, have their cork or foil sealed with a numbered and government approved seal.
The Oddero family has been making wine since the end of the 17th century. The family controls nearly 90 acres of vineyards spread across the Langhe (some as small as 1 acre) and produces virtually all of Piedmont’s renowned grapes from Barbaresco and Nebbiolo to Moscato. They vinify in a winery located in Santa Maria of La Morroa. La Morra is a beautiful hilltop town in the far northwest of the Italian boot.
The families DOCG Barolo is produced from 100% Nebbiolo grown on three plots 250 meters above sea level, and from vines that are as old as 60 years. They manually sort grapes by vineyard, then ferment in stainless steel for 20 days and follow with malolactic fermentation. Juice from each of the three vineyards are then aged separately in varied sized Slovenian and Austrian oak barrels for 30 months. The Barolo DOCG is blended in the spring, bottled at the end of the summer and then aged in bottle for an additional six months before it is released to the public.
The result is bright and fresh garnet colored wine with an excellent floral nose with hints of truffle. There is excellent balance between tannins and fruit, and while this is a wine that will age nicely for the next few years, it is also a wine very ready to consume now.
That truffles are a key element of the flavor package is ironic. Giacomo Oddero, who managed the winery through the 20th century, its period of greatest growth, was instrumental in the development of the National Center for Alba Truffle Studies to study and promote “The King of Mushrooms”. It is not surprising that he produced wines ideal as companions for a variety of cuisines.
The 2014 Oddero DOCG is worth a little hunt.
We will be out of the country for a couple of weeks. The trip should provide an opportunity to share insights on new wines and spirits.