Last night, we visited Summerville’s Accent on Wine to enjoy a “The Whole Shebang” (a generous amount of six personally selected meats and cheese) a nice red. South Carolina permits the sale of wine by both the bottle and glass in the same establishment, and Accent of Wine has a modest, but very interesting (and well-priced) collection.
We chose a bottle of 2014 Robert Foley Napa Valley Charbono.
Foley only produces about 600 cases of Charbono each vintage sourced from grapes grown by the Heitz Family in Napa Valley’s Calistoga region. Heitz originally sold the grapes to Inglenook but when Inglenook stopped vinifying the grape, they were prepared to rip out the vines and growing a something they could sell. Robert Foley came calling. Today, Foley is the largest producer of Charbono in the world.
Charbono is widely planted in Argentina where it is known as Bonarda. Second only to Malbec is acreage but is primarily vinified for fruity and medium-bodied bulk wines. The grapes European origins are thought to be Savoie where is also referred to as Bonarda or Douce noir. France gained control of the region from Italy in 1860s, and the original cuttings are thought to have been transported to California by 19th century immigrants. Originally the cuttings were thought to be Barbara. Researchers at The University of California at Davis eventually determined that the Barbara and Charbono were unique varietals.
The Charbono grape, grown on vines as old as 70 years, thrives in the wild temperature swings inherent to Calistoga. Interestingly, the sugar content (brix) stops developing late in the summer while the skins continue to mature. The wine is deeply colored and full-bodied with a wonderful mouthfeel. Enjoy black fruit and plum from the nose through the lingering finish. And, although Foley suggests that the wine could have a long life despite the relatively low alcohol (generally less than 14%), you can enjoy the Charbono young.
The Foley 2014 Charbono was a wonderful addition to our Whole Shebang. This wine would also work wonderfully with beef brisket or a well-grilled burger. The 2015 is currently on the shelf (approximately $40).