Joy and had the opportunity to tasting through the range of wines from Napa producer Canard Vineyard. Hosted by Hall’s Chophouse, close to our home in Summerville, South Carolina, this was our first wine tasting at this venue.

Canard Vineyard’s managing director, Adam Fox, provided us with excellent insight regarding both the wines and the winery.

Canard was created in 1983 when Rich and Carolyn Czapleski, who were initially searching for a Napa ‘weekend getaway’, stumbled across nearly 25 acres of vines near the town of Calistoga on the Silverado Trail. The house was built in 1859 on the property quickly became “the center of social activity in the area” through the late 19^th century. It was the originally the home of Reason P. Tucker, noted for leading the “efforts to rescue the survivors of the ill fated Donnor Party”.

They soon discovered that their new getaway was planted with some very old vines, but they did not seem ideal for the production of commercially viable wine. Those old vineyards had been planted to Zinfandel (very popular for its easy management, and high yields) nearly 140 years ago. These vines had been ‘dry farmed’. They were tilled in the spring and whatever moisture was produced by virtue of the tilling is all the grapes subsist on until harvest. Vines that struggle produce deeply flavored and hued wines. This is particularly true of Zinfandel. Unfortunately, these old vines produce very little wine.

The Canard ‘old vine Zins produced actually produced very few grapes…less than two tons per acre. The old vines looked ‘gnarly’ (but…old Zin vines are supposed to look gnarly). The new owners considered ripping out the six acres of old vines and replanting with far more profitable Cabernet Sauvignon. Robert Mondavi and Joe Heitz, two of the Napa Valley’s pioneers, stopped by to chat. Mondavi and Heitz strongly recommended that they not remove the Zin vines…and the new owners did not. “There was only one other commercially producing Napa vineyard with vines dating to the 1880s”. The Canard vines, according to Mondavi and Heitz, were intrinsic to the heritage of Napa. A deeper discussion of ‘Old Vine Zins’ is on the list of future posts.

The remainder of the Canard’s acres are planted to traditional Bordeaux blending grapes.

All Canard vines are sustainably farmed. A sustainable approach “focuses on producing long-term crops while having a minimal effect on the environment. The process also focuses on maintaining economic stability of farms and helping farmers improve their techniques and quality of life”.

We had an opportunity to taste their 2018 Estate Zinfandel.  Elegant and deep in color, it is one of the finest Zins we have ever had the opportunity to experience. We enjoyed a bottle of their 100% Estate Cabernet with dinner…equally deep in color and flavor. Both wines offer substantial tannins that will soften in the glass.

Canard’s first Zins were the work of California legend Joel Petersen. Petersen took Sonoma’s Ravenswood from 6,000 to 100,000 cases, but he is equally comfortable working in a boutique setting. Petersen and the Czapleski’s determined that a blend of very ripe and ‘not so quite ripe’ grapes (not picked at the same time) was ideal for their blend. The result is a reduction in alcohol and an increase in complexity…they were right with the first vintage…the process continues to current vintages.

There are only 3,200 cases of Canard wines produced each vintage, and they are not widely distributed. Managing Director, and tasting director, Adam Fox also determines where the approximately 1,600 cases not sold through their club membership will ultimately reside. You will find Canard wines in Florida, the ski regions of the American west, and now in all of Hall’s Chophouse locations. The restaurant charge per bottle is likely to be north of $100. However, if you can find them in a retail setting, the price will be substantially south of $100. A future blog post will also discuss the nature of retail and restaurant wine pricing.

Hall’s Chophouse is planning two wines events each month (dinner or tasting). The Canard tasting was offered at no cost but did require a reservation. Join the Hall’s email list for updates on events.

These are expensive wines…but they are very well made, unique, and worth the price.

As an alternative, and much less expensive, red blend consider the Komodo Dragon Red. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah blend offers deep color, a pleasant mouth-feel, a touch of sweet spice, and a lingering finish. You should be able to find this one nationally for less than $20.

Things change…

I tend to emotionally assign grapes to regions. Albarino originates from Spain, Port from Portugal, and Roussanne is, or should be, from the Rhone. The problem with this approach is that American winemakers would be limited to Concord, Catawba, and Norton (plus a few other unfortunate cousins). Reliance grapes on those grapes would certainly have altered our wine culture. Grapes can, of course, grow in like climates and similar soil, regardless of the boundaries established by political entities rather than nature. Thank goodness…

Joy and I were recently introduced to Kivelstadt Cellars 2018 Mother of Invention with grapes from Mendocino County, California. You would most likely find this organically produced blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Roussanne in the southern Rhone. These grapes are regular blending partners, and they are also difficult grapes to grow. Roussanne is susceptible to disease, produces low yields, and is at risk of oxidation during fermentation. Marsanne is slightly less temperamental but requires carefully control in the vineyard (too hot…wines are flabby; too cold…the grapes don’t ripen).

In the Rhone Valley, Roussanne is the primary grape in the production of the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and was introduced to California in the 1980s by Randall Graham of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Graham smuggled (no cuttings are permitted into California without inspection by the California agricultural authorities…Graham’s cuttings entered in a suitcase in order to bypass authorities). Graham, one of the original ‘Rhone Rangers’, successfully grafted his smuggled cuttings, and in the early 1990s sold his own cuttings to Sonoma Grapevine, one of California’s largest nurseries. Sonoma Grapevine eventually sold Graham’s suitcase cuttings across the state.

Both Roussanne and Marsanne result in wines that are rich and dry. They both present elements of pear and nut. The Roussanne is floral with hints of herbs on the nose and white pepper on the palate through the finish. Marsanne, usually a blending grape, adds citrus and orange to the flavor package. Both of these grapes can produce high alcohol, but the Mother of Invention comes in at just over 13%. The combination produces an excellent wine with which to start the evening or with white meats.

Kivelstadt Cellars (initially named Pavo Estates and two years later renamed Qualia Wines) is a relatively new winery. Nancy Kivelson and Tom Angstadt purchased a steep and rocky vineyard estate outside of Glen Ellen in Sonoma in 2005. The 10 acres of organically farmed grapes is now managed by their son Jordan (his last name a blending of his parents last names). The yield range is from 1.5 to 2.5 tons per acre (much lower than the 3 to 5 tons per acre that is considered optimal).

The temperatures around Glen Ellen are very much like those of the northern Rhone. Thus, not surprisingly Jordan, who had visited the Rhone during a wine making and learning journey, focused on the original Rhone grape…Syrah.

He vinified and aged his 125 cases of Estate Syrah at the Dogpatch Wineworks in the eastern San Francisco neighborhood of Dogpatch. Dogpatch, once a mix of industry and full-time residents, has become one of The Bay Cities ‘coolest neighborhoods’. But, the romance between Kivelstadt and Dogpatch was not destined to last.

Kivelstadt Cellars, now named for its winemaker, has (or will soon) relocate to downtown Sonoma. It will soon be housed in a former grille that will (within a month or so) house the winery, the tasting room (currently in Glen Ellen) and a restaurant. Kivelstadt envisions a ‘wine garden’ immersing guests in a total wine experience.

That original 125 case output has expanded to 3,500 and has added a 330 case production with those grapes sourced in Mendocino, to vinify the crisp and fruit forward Rhone-style Mother of Invention.

Aged in neutral French oak following fermentation with natural yeasts, this is a wine that offers excellent acidity. You will find soft elements of melon on the nose and hints of apple and honey surrounded by “fresh picked white flowers”.

As noted earlier, this is a wonderful wine with which to start a meal, but don’t serve it too cold…let it warm to open the flavor package.

Not surprisingly, with only 330 cases, the Mother of Invention (which sells for around $25) is not widely available. Interestingly, there are very few Marsanne/Roussanne blends. You could order the Cairdeas 2018 Nellie Mae White from the winery ($24). You could also look for the Kita 2018 Taya Camp 4 Vineayrd White. The Kita adds 4% Grenache Blanc to the primary grapes.

Tablas Creek makes a many more widely distributed white Rhone blends. However, the Tablas Creek white Rhone blends are not restricted to Marsanne and Roussanne. Check with your local wine shop for their suggestions.

Try white Rhone with poultry and seafood.

We have not discussed a spirit in months. It is time to correct that flaw…

A couple of weeks ago Joy and I had the opportunity to spend some time with friends in a beautiful planned community located on Lake Lanier, north of Atlanta. We toured the area, ate in a couple of excellent local eateries, and had the opportunity to share a new Bourbon that was both reasonably priced and approachable.

Rabbit Hole Cavehill is produced in Louisville, Kentucky. The distillery was founded in 2012 by psychologist Kaveh Zamanian (and his ‘muse’…wife Heather) who enjoyed both Bourbon and Rye, ultimately left a 20-year career in psychology, and built a “magnificent distillery in the heart of Louisville as a homage to the art and science of distillation”.

He developed “unique whiskey recipes that are made 100% in Kentucky”. He hired Vendome Copper and Brass Works, fourth generation fabricators noted for their extraordinary and exquisite work, to create 24-inch copper column stills. Kelvin Cooperage, an outstanding barrel maker that relocated to Kentucky from Scotland, and is responsible for the American charred oak barrels that are key to the excellent flavor package.

The Rabbit Hole Cavehill is a straight Bourbon.

Straight Bourbon is defined as a product distilled from “from a fermented (malted or unmalted) cereal grain mash to a concentration not exceeding 80% ABV and aged in new charred oak barrels for at least two years at a concentration not exceeding 62.5% at the start of the ageing process”. For a product to be labeled as Bourbon also requires a mash bill with no less than 51% corn.

The Cavehill is named for Louisville’s Cave Hill Cemetery, that Zamanian claims is “the resting place of more distillers than anywhere in the country”. Zamanian continues that he lives jsut down the street from the cemetery, and “has a lot of reverence there. These are the individuals that paved the way”.

The entire range of Rabbit Hole products was renamed by new owners (as of 2019) Pernod Ricard. The Paris based distiller and marketing group owns the blended Scotch Chivas Regal and the single malt Abelour, but has been out of the American whiskey business since they sold Wild Turkey in 2009. The renaming is, as the Cavehill suggests, an effort to “honor the most influential figures in Louisville”.

Rabbit Hole produces this Kentucky straight bourbon from four grains (70% corn, 10% malted wheat, 10% honey malted barley, and 10% malted barley). The American Oak barrels are charred to #3 (out of four) and the smokey whiskey is bottled at 47.5% ABV.

You will find an amber color and elements of orange and honey on the nose. This is both rich and sweet. The orange and honey tones continue on the palate with the addition of that hint of smoke, vanilla, and white pepper. You will enjoy the honey and an element of almond on the finish.

Rabbit Hole products are slowly making their way into most markets (although not yet in South Carolina). The Cavehill can be found for less than $60.

While on the road from north Georgia to Charleston, we were fortunate to stumble across the Six and Twenty Distillery in Powdersville, South Carolina (northwest portion of the state). The distillery is named for a Cherokee legend and has been in operation since 2011. They will soon be moving to a larger facility in Greenville, SC.

I have been a fan of the Six and Twenty 5-Grain Bourbon (corn, soft winter wheat, barley, rye, and rice), and had the opportunity to sample their new Heirloom Straight Rye (very limited). Nice nutty and caramel element. Available for $60 in limited markets.

Both the Rabbit Hole Cavehill and the Six and Twenty Rye are worth tracking down.

The weather in the Low Country is already warming. And, hopefully, warming trends are on the near horizon for our friends in the North. However, regardless of the temperature, it is time for an ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) conversation. And, some of you may also be looking for an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. Thus, let’s talk about Grüner Veltliner.

You will most likely find Grüner Veltliner in Austria (nearly 33% of total vineyard plantings) and also with more than 10% of Czech vines. There are also a few of these food-friendly grapes in the New World (Massachusetts, Oregon, Maryland, the North Fork of Long Island, New York’s Finger Lakes, Napa, Ohio, and etc.). Australia has also started to vinify this popular restaurant wine-list product. There are 50,000 acres of Grüner Veltliner exist world wide…75% in Austria. Most of these vines produce large yields requiring control to maintain quality.

The term Grüner Veltliner first appeared in the mid-19^th century. Nevertheless, the Austrians did not take the grape seriously, and only began training the vines until the late 1940s. By the 1950s it had become “Austria’s most planted variety”. The Austrian government eventually “designated the vine as a protected natural monument”.

“Many of the wines are highly mineral and pure – reflecting the gravel and lack of soil”. The bottles are usually green, but the fluid is usually a very pale green. Traditionally dry, you will find citrus, lime, lemon, and grapefruit (with a hint of white pepper). The flavor package explodes in your mouth “like pop rocks”. Grüner Veltliner is generally released with less than 2 years of aging, and the ABV is often below 12.5%. Don’t be surprised to find bottles secured with a screwcap (we will discuss this later). And, this is a white wine that will age well.

“That remarkably high acidity will mask any sweet notes. And it even leads to just a hint of effervescence in some bottles”. However, don’t be surprised if you find some nut and cream in the flavor palate in these full-bodied wines.

A couple of options…

The 2017 Weingut Hirsch, an organic product, comes from a winery owned by by the same family since 1878 and housed in a structure that was originally constructed during the 16^th century’s High Renaissance. Now managed by Johannes Hirsch who represents the fifth generation of the family. Originally, the Hirsch family engaged in mixed agriculture (grapes with other crops). The focus on viticulture began with Johanne’ father, Josef, in the late 1970s when he took responsibility for a little more than six acres of vineyards from his father.

Josef eventually acquired additional acreage, in 1996, at fourteen, Johannes joined the ‘firm’. In 1999, at the “height of the red boom” they removed the red wine varieties and focused on Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. Good decision.

You should be able to track this stainless-steel matured wine (now in the 2018 juicy vintage with hints of white pepper spice) for around $20 a bottle. This is an excellent wine.

A second option, the 93 rated Wine Enthusiast 2018 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Federspiel is another Austrian “lightly peppery white has plenty of fresh zest coupled with ripe melon smith”. You should find this one for less than $18.

Enjoy Grüner Veltliner with everything from asparagus to tacos. I enjoy it as a starter for virtually every meal. The crisp elements of the wine work with salad and cheese and simply on its own

Welcome to the first Vine and Spirits Report post of 2020. I hope that everyone had a pleasant and restful holiday season and are now ready to engage in a wine and spirits year that will introduce new products and old friends in new vintages. And, I hope that you are prepared for a year in which the intersection of wine/spirits and politics will intersect likely impacting availability and most certainly impacting prices. More on the tariff issue, and on the likely impact on wine production as a result of the Australian fires, in later posts.

This post is focused on Albariño. It might seem unusual that the first post of the year, while the weather is cool (even in the Charleston, SC area), would be on a white wine. Albariño, while fresh and crisp, with excellent acidity, and a touch of citrus, is excellent during the warmer months, it is also ideal anytime of the year as a starter and with seafood. I have recently enjoyed two different versions of the wine.

Albariño is a white grape usually associated with Galicia (northwest Spain) as well as in northwest Portugal.  Some grape historians suggest that it may have been introduced to the region during the 12^th or 13^th centuries from France. The aromatic link to Riesling suggested that Albariño was possibly a Riesling clone, or a relatived of Petit Manseng. Petit Manseng can be found in southwestern France, and is traditionally vinified to produce late harvest dessert wine. However, more recent investigations suggest that Albariño is indigenous to the Rias Baixas.

Limited Albariño is produced beyond the Iberian Peninsula. You will find small production in both California (289 acres) and Oregon (the Oregon Wine Board recognized that the a a few acres of the grape was grown and vinified in 2018) . Australian winemakers, for more than a decade, were marketing wine labeled as Albariño. However, in 2008 when it was “confirmed that the grapes were French Savagnin”. The Australians had ordered cutting of Albariño but had mistakenly been shipped the Savagnin. Savagnin is generally found at the base of the Alps in eastern France. The green skinned grape is the basis of a sherry, and dessert wines.

The Albariño versions discussed in this post originate in the Rias Baixas. Located in the northwest Spain, along the sea, just north of Portugal, more than 99% of “all wine produced in Rias Baixas is white”. The Spanish wine authority permits 12 grape varieties to be grown in the region, but Albariño “represents 96% of all plantings”. The region is occasionally referred to as ‘Green Spain’, and the vineyards are cooled by the breeze of the nearby Atlantic Ocean.

The region’s winemakers’ hand-harvest grapes, lightly press, and macerate the juice, pulp, and skins to “increase the wine’s aromatic complexity and structure”. Many Rias Baixas winemakers are triggering fermentation with native yeasts. They recognize that the use of wild yeasts is a challenge, but “they believe the resulting aromas are a more authentic reflection of the characteristics of the Albariño grape and their terroir”.

Albariño very rarely aged in oak, but malolactic fermentation is commonly employed to reduce the tart tones and develop a product with softer (some would say ‘creamier’) mouth feel.

Friends and I had an opportunity to enjoy the 2017 Doelas Rias Baixas (Lagar de Costa) Albariño during a restaurant week dinner at Husk, one of Charleston’s finest establishments. It was offered at a reasonable price on a robust wine list and was an excellent choice following a delightful evening of music at the beautiful Circular Church.

More than a century old, Lagar de Costa continues to operate in the original winery building, but have embraced modern winemaking processes, and are devoted to sustainable farming. You can find the Lagar de Costa nationwide for just north of $22 retail.

A second Albariño, the 2017 Do Ferreiro, surfaced during a family luncheon, at a wonderful French bistro L’Albatros, near the campus of Case Western Reserve University in Cleveland, Ohio.

Available nationwide for just south of $20, Do Ferreiro is directed (since 1973) by Gerardo Mendez. He currently owns 10 hectares, one of which boosts vines more than a century old, and farms 175 plots in the Rias Baixas region of Salnes (on the Atlantic coast). The Do Albariño is blended from those 175 plots.

Both wines offer elements of lemon and lime, a touch of grapefruit, and a hint of wet stone on the nose. You will find excellent acidity and balance, and a delightful saltiness on the palate that extends through the finish.

Designed to drink young, Albariño can be aged for a few years. Serve cold but allow the wine to warm in the glass. The increase in temperature should add some minerality, and even some apple tones to the palate.

Albariño is excellent as a starter for any occasion and is a wonderful accompaniment to virtually any seafood (cold or warm).

Look one of these wines down or ask your favorite retailer for their Albariño recommendation.

Livermore, California, is located on the eastern border of the San Francisco Bay area. Since 1952, Livermore has been the home to the critically important and federally funded Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory.  The labratory is dedicated to both nuclear and national security research.

Livermore, California is also the home to dozens of wineries including Murrieta’s Well.

Murrieta’s Well is one of the oldest wineries in California. It began in 1884 through the efforts of Louis Mel and his wife. The land offered gravelly soils very like Bordeaux, and elevations that would be ideal for well-drained vineyards, and ultimately for the development of a gravity fed winery. And, fortunately, Mel’s wife was friendly with the owner of Chateau d’Yquem and was able to obtain cuttings from this extraordinary winery noted for the production of the some of the world’s most expensive dessert wines. Mel also acquired cuttings from the equally extraordinary Bordeaux producer, Chateau Margaux. Margaux and d’Yquem…both excellent ‘starters’ for the development of some ‘new world’ wines.

The Mel family held onto the winery through Prohibition, but in 1940 they sold the property to winemaker Ernest Wente. The Wente family ownership continues. Ironically, Wente’s forefathers had been in the wine business even longer than Mel…they formed Wente Brothers on 47 acres in Livermore a year earlier than Louis Mel and his wife had established their effort. Carl Wente, the 1883 Livermore founder, learned his wine skills while working for the iconic Charles Krug in Napa Valley.

Wente renamed the winery Murrieta’s Well, “paying homage to Joaquin Murrieta, a gold rush bandit, who discovered the estate in the early 1800s”.

Murrieta’s Well now has more than 500 acres planted three different soils, and elevations that supports 21 grape varieties. The winery is a ‘Certified California Sustainable Winery’, and “focuses on all estate, small-batch and small lot wines”. Current winemaker Robbie Meyer indicates that “each varietal is allowed to develop to its peak potential in the vineyard, and then, through blending, is able to put an artistic touch on the winemaking process”.

One of the excellent blends created by Meyer is 2017’s, The Spur. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates this classic Bordeaux blend, but Petite Sirah, Merlot, and Petite Verdot also contribute to the final product. Each of the varietals are fermented individually at cool temperatures in stainless steel. To guarantee “the full fruit expression of the vineyard”, each of the varietals are pumped over three times.

The blending is completed soon after harvest and the blended juice is then aged for 24 months in French Oak (40% new oak, 40% second use, and 20% third use).

This is a deep and dark wine that offers blueberry elements with hints of blackberry and ripe cherry that begins on the nose and extends through the palate. The winemaker suggests that you could also find elements of graham cracker…you just might. The Spur is velvety on the palate and would be an excellent accompaniment for your holiday meal. The ABV is high enough for beef, but the flavor package is soft enough to work with pork and poultry.

There are nearly 10,000 cases of the Spur produced, and it is available nationwide in the $20 range.

This is the final post of 2019. It has been a pleasure to share wines, spirits, and views on the industry with, through more than 60 posts, over this past year. I look forward to the search for new wines and spirts (as well as some conversation about the industry and laws associate with it) to share with you in 2020.

Have a wonderful holiday season from The Vine and Spirits Report. We raise a glass in toast to you in celebration of good cheer and good drink during this holiday season.

Americans have long enjoyed sparkling wine. In fact, recent reports suggest that Americans appear to be really enjoying sparkling wines. In the past decade there has been a 50% increase in the consumption of all sparkling wine. Following that trend, 2018 sales showed a 5% increase in sparkling bottles/cans sold. Sparkling wine now claims nearly 7% of all U.S. wine consumption. And, consumers have clearly decided that sparklers can be enjoyed year-round.

This growth is remarkable, especially given the ‘reports’ of physical risks associated with the opening of sparkling wine bottles. In fact, there are ‘internet stories’ indicating that as many as 24 individuals have been killed by corks propelled by Carbon Dioxide released by opening a sparkling wine. Such carnage perpetrated by the simple act of opening a bottle should be very big news…if it was true. Nope…it is not true. Don’t believe everything you read on the ‘internet of all things’.

There is significant pressure within a sparkling wine bottle (that is why they are so thick) created by the Carbon Dioxide that are also responsible for those attractive bubbles. There is 70-90 PSI generated inside that thick bottle. A sparkling wine cork can be propelled at nearly 24 MPH. However, there is no credible evidence that anyone has lost their life through an unfortunate interaction with a sparkling cork (including the recent report of a Chinese ‘robber barons’ demise). Nevertheless, you should be cautious when opening a bottle of sparkling wine. Grip the the cork firmly, and slowly turn the bottle. And, be sure to hold the bottle at an angle away from you…and, of course, away from all breakable items.

Risks and warnings aside, this post is dedicated to Crémants, and specifically a Crémant de Bordeaux. Sparkling wine from Bordeaux?Yep. The home of the world’s most expensive Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends is ironically the home to reasonably priced and very approachable sparkling wines.

Let’s start with the concept of Crémant. Although the term originated in the Champagne region, since 1985 the term is no longer used on ‘Champagne’. And, non-Champagne produced sparkling wines, prompted by lobbying by Champagne region producers, are no longer to permitted to include the terms Champagne or ‘methode champenoise’ on their labels.  You may find a few non-European producers (those who do not export sparkling wine to the European Union) continuing to print ‘methode champenoise’, or the Champagne on their label. There are very few vintners still using the terms.

Back to Crémant, “From 1985 on, the word designates sparkling wines from other French regions made using the traditional second fermentation in bottle method”.

There are eight regions of France permitted to produce Crémant. And, there are common regulations required of producers including hand harvesting; restricting the quantity of juice to 100 liters from pressing 150 kg of grapes; limitations on dosage; and aging for a minimum for nine months on lees, followed by three months before release to market.

Alsace produces more than 50% of French Crémant, but most consumers are surprised that Bordeaux is one of the eight producing regions. There are, however, only 250 acres of Bordeaux vineyards devoted to the vinification of sparkling wines. And, although Crémant has been produced in Bordeaux since the early 19^th century, the appellation was only recognized in 1990.

There is no restriction on the grapes used to produce Crémant, and most regions use vinifera successfully grown in that region. Bordeaux, not surprisingly, ferments Merlot “along with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Malbec, Petite Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and/or Muscadelle”.

The term Crémant is French for ‘creamy’. Known for tight and persistent bubbles, you will find many of the mineral and floral aromas that you have come to enjoy in Champagne.

Our friends at Accent on Wine recently hosted an excellent tasting (at the spectacular Woodlands in Summerville). They introduced us to the Bordeaux Crémant, Castel’s Cru de la Maqueline. The price was excellent ($14) and so was the wine.

There are only 6,000 bottles in the first vintage of Cru de la Maqueline available, but it is worth tracking down one of them. The Maqueline is blended primarily from Merlot, with the addition of a little Petit Verdot. The bubbles are tight, you will find floral hints on the nose, and bright fruit through the palate and the finish.  Again, an excellent wine at an excellent value.

The producers plan on a significant increase in production…we certainly hope they do.

Another option.

One of our…and I suspect many of you… enjoy Gruet, a sparkling wine produced in New Mexico (yes…New Mexico!) .  Gruet has created a custom label…Jacqueline Leonne Rose. This is a wine that you will usually find only at Total Wines. There are a few clever retailers who can secure this sparkler. You should find it for less than $15.

The fruit is soft, the bubbles tight, the price is right…a great wine with which to welcome the New Year (or a celebration of the old).

Even if you can’t find a Crémant from Bordeaux, there are other excellent versions of this sparkler. Ask your favorite retailer.

The Etruscans introduced wine to the region, and the Romans continued to grow and produce excellent wine, but for many of us Chianti conjures memories of a squat straw covered bottle. In the early 1970s the package was much more interesting than the wine. However, the bottle did make a marvelous candleholder.

There are a few Chianti producers that continue to utilize the straw ‘basket’ (officially called a fiasco). Total Wines offers Bellini Chianti, and you can still find Opici Chianti in a few retail settings.

Obviously, regardless of the bottle’s appearance, the focus of this post is the rich red wine that originates in Chianti wine region of central Tuscany. And, although the first wine labeled Chianti was first produced in the early 18^th century, it was not until the middle of the 19^th century that the Baron Bettino Ricasoli codified the Chianti ‘recipe’ with the focus on Sangiovese. By the 1930s the style had become so popular that the Chianti region was divided into seven ‘sub-regions’ to better identify quality.

The largest of these newly defined regions was Chianti Classico.  Chianti Classico became so popular that the region developed a ‘personal mascot’…the black rooster. The rooster’s origins are rooted in the Medieval period, during a struggle between the city-states of Florence and Siena (these two cities disliked each other so intensely that they fought wars) over territorial expansion and control.

A race between horseback riders (the Florentine rider was awakened by a black rooster) resulted in Florence acquiring a larger share of the territory. That territory included Chianti. Thus…the black rooster gained status as the mascot of both the region and its wine. You will find the black rooster prominently displayed on the neck tax label attached to bottles of Chianti Classico.

The Baron Ricasoli’s original formula for Chianti has varied little over the past 175 years. Any wine labeled Chianti must now contain at least 80% Sangiovese and aged for four to seven months In 1995 it became legal to produce a Chianti from 100% Sangiovese. For a wine to have ‘Riserva’ attached it must be aged for a minimum of 38 months. You may run across a few wines labeled Chianti Superiore…these wines meet more rigorous standards of “lower yield and higher alcohol”.

And, then there are the Super Tuscans. Piero Antinori developed a wine labeled Tignanello (Sangiovese with some non-indigenous grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc). The wine was an immediately hit with consumers and now commands north of $120. Not surprisingly, many other winemakers followed suit. The ‘Super Tuscan’ is an unofficial Italian wine category, but it is the most expensive expression of Sangiovese.

As much as I enjoy Super Tuscans (the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon appeals to my ‘sweet spot’), the focus of this post is an old Chianti friend, Monsanto.

Aldo Bianchi is a native of San Gimignano. San Gimignano is a beautiful walled city located in the Tuscan province of Siena. With a population of less than 8,000 San Gimignano has been long noted for the production of a dry and crisp white wine vinified from Vernaccia.

Bianchi left for the northern regions of Italy before World War II but returned in 1960 for a wedding and fell in love with Castello di Monsanto and its views of the towers of San Gimignano. Aldo may have enjoyed the views, but his son Fabrizio enjoyed the regions wines. In 1962 Fabrizio created the first Monsanto Chianti Classico.

Through the next half century Monsanto led Chianti to embrace innovations in vinification and vineyard management. They employed stainless steel fermenters, Slovenian oak replaced Chestnut, and recently the increased use of truncated cones for fermentation.

I would strongly recommend that you track down the 2015 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva. Rated at 92-96 points, you will enjoy a full bodied and dark wine with a wonderful mouthfeel and tannins that would benefit from some softening in the glass. Look for red cherry and earth tones on the nose, joined by black current on the palate and through the lingering finish.

You can find the Monsanto for around $20 nationwide. If you are seeking a less expensive option, consider the 2017 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico for less than $15.

There are many myths surrounding the First Thanksgiving.

Thus, let’s begin this post with a few ‘historic’ corrections…

First, and interestingly, the original settlers of Plymouth Colony did not refer to themselves as Pilgrims. Some of the new English transplants called themselves ‘Saints’, and others saw themselves as religious ‘dissidents’. As a whole, they had unsuccessfully attempted to ‘purify’ the Church of England. Seeking religious independence,  the group fled to Holland. And, following an unhappy stay on the European mainland, they returned to England, and almost immediately embarked on the Mayflower for the ‘New World’. William Bradford, one of the Mayflower travelers, first associated the term ‘pilgrimes’ (lower case/Hebrews, Chapter 11 KJV, referring those who traveled for religious purposes) for the settlers . Pilgrim, as a proper name, joined the common vernacular in the 1840s.

For the purposes of a Thanksgiving discussion, we will simply use the term ‘Pilgrims’.

The first ‘Thanksgiving’ was (a real fact) held in 1621, but it was not celebrated every year. Moreover, the specific date of the first ‘Thanksgiving’ is unknown…sometime between the end of September and the middle of November. A ‘Thanksgiving’ (which could last for three days), was only held when residents decided to ‘celebrate’ a particularly successful harvest. However, with Abraham Lincoln’s “appointment of the last Thursday of November” as a day of Thanksgiving “to the ever-watchful providence of Almighty God” for plentiful harvests, the event assumed greater regularity. Although many Americans chose to participate, celebrations were a personal choice and not a national holiday.

In 1939, President Franklin Roosevelt established the third Thursday of November as a day of ‘Thanksgiving’. However, FDR’s motive for the pronouncement was not altruistic. Retailers were concerned that Lincoln’s ‘last Thursday of November’ (November 30 in 1939), would leave very few shopping days before Christmas. They urged Roosevelt to help the economy by moving Thanksgiving back a week. Sixteen states objected to the change and continued to celebrate Thanksgiving on the last Thursday of November. For two years there were two November Thursdays  on which Thanksgiving might be celebrated. The issue was resolved in 1941. A  joint Congressional resolution declared the fourth Thursday of November as both a national day of Thanksgiving and a legal holiday.

But, enough history…

Sadly, the ‘Pilgrims’ did not drink wine. However, the ‘Pilgrims” did enjoy alcoholic beverages. Unfortunately, wine did not travel well, and the Mayflower had landed in the vinifera  poor Northeast.  And, any new vines (even if you could grow vinifera in New England) would be at least three years away from producing something drinkable.

Europeans of the 17th century generally suffered from poor water quality, and they relied on low alcohol beverages as a safer beverage. Thus, the Pilgrims traveled to the New World with beer. However, when they arrived in New England, they faced a serious crisis…they had consumed all of their beer during the westward journey. The travelers attempted to secure beer from the Mayflower’s crew, but the sailors refused the request. They were unwilling to risk a shortage on their return journey.

Critically, there was no barley or hops available. Thus, the new settlers could not brew the beer with which they were familiar. They attempted to use “lips of pumpkins, parsnips, walnut tree chips, and green cornstalks to make their best beer”. The flavor package was not embraced.

Fortunately, there were apples. Apples provide both the sugar and the natural yeast necessary for the natural reproduction of apples, and fortunately, also sufficient sugar and yeast for fermentation. The Pilgrims were able to ferment apple juice into ‘hard cider’. Hard cider was a popular drink in England, and the Pilgrims were familiar with both the drink and the process.

Hard cider is still a Northeastern tradition. Angry Orchard, founded in New York in 2012, fermenting both European and U.S. apples, has captured nearly 50% of the hard cider market. Angry Orchard is owned, ironically, by Massachusetts based Boston Beer Company, the brewers of Sam Adams.

Sadly…no wine.

Wine could not become a regular (or legal) element of the Thanksgiving feast until the end of Prohibition in December of 1933 (thank you, again, Franklin Roosevelt). That, however, is a history for another time.

If your goal is to celebrate in the fashion of the Pilgrims…avoid the turkey (they were not the settler’s bird of choice) and wash down any other fowl with hard cider. However, if you date your Thanksgiving to FDR’s 1941 pronouncement of the holiday, when wine was both legal and available, all options are on the ‘table’.

Whatever your choice of beverage or bird…have a wonderful Thanksgiving from The Vine and Spirits Report.

I reached out to a few friends in retail for suggestions of Thanksgiving wines that would expand the palates of both the knowledgeable and the novice oenophile. The last post focused on wines that retail for $20 or less…this post moves above that price point.

Our friends at Accent on Wine in Summerville and Park Circle (North Charleston), South Carolina,  recommended some interesting whites, including an intriguing Vermentino, but the one that caught my eye was Elizabeth Chamber’s 2016 Pinot Gris. Sadly, winery founder, and veteran Willamette Valley winemaker, Elizabeth Chambers, passed away unexpectedly in 2018, but her legacy of crisp whites and flavorful Pinot Noir continues under the leadership Drew Voit, Chamber’s colleague at Silvan Ridge.

This Pinot Gris, rated at 90 points from the Wine Enthusiast, is “bone dry” and offers excellent minerality along with elements of green fruit that will be wonderful with your Thanksgiving feast. You can find this Pinot Gris for just north of $20.

Accent on Wine also recommends the 2018 Monaco ‘Rosso’. Produced by Danilo Marcucci, the Umbrian leader of the Italian Natural Wine Movement. Following the Natural Wine standards, Marcucci utilizes spontaneous fermentation focused on natural yeasts (instead of cultured yeasts). The 2018 is a blend of Sangiovese (70%), Ciliegiolo (20%), and Aleatico (10%). There is no added sulfur and no filtration.

The Rosso has a medium body and a lingering finish that offers hints of spice on the nose and red fruit on the palate. There are only 2000 bottles available at a $40 price point.

A third recommendation is the 2018 Bainbridge and Cathcart, Cuvée Rouge Aux Lèvresh. You can this secure this French ‘garage’ product of Oklahoma natives, for just north of $30. It offers “smooth tannins and fresh and Juicy garden berries, slightly herbal tones and a gentle touch of pepper”.

Sealed with a crown cap and vinified from 100% Grolleau grown on nearly century old vines, this earthy wine will be excellent with your Thanksgiving dinner.

Chan’s Wine World in the Panhandle region of Florida also has three wonderful options.

You should seek the 2015 Gini La Frosca Soave Classico, a product of Veneto, Italy (94 points from the Wine Enthusiast) for about $30.

The Gini family has been producing wine for more than 400 years. They grow Garganega (this one is 100% Garganega) on nearly 60 acres of volcanic soil, from century old vines, within the Soave Classico appellation. Barrel aged, you will enjoy a wine that is “straw yellow with golden-green reflections. Elegant and complex with mineral notes…and yellow apple, lemon, white peach, almond”. The flavor package will offer an ideal pairing for appetizers and through the main course for those favoring white meat.

A second Wine World recommendation comes from Tendril Cellars. The 2017 Yamhill-Carlton, Williamette Valley, Child’s Play Pinot Chardonnay, earned 91 points from The Washington Wine Blog, and can be found for a price just north of $20.

Tentril, owned by Tony Ryders, who for ten years headed the winemaking team at Domaine Serene, first released a wine in 2008 through the joint effort of Ryders and his wife. The term Child’s Play honors his daughters, whose “artwork is proudly displayed on their labels”.

This unique blend (70% of Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir) spends six months in stainless steel before release. The wine offers a “bright and juicy structure…and offers hints of ripe Asian pear and peach”. The winemaker suggests that the Child’s Play will pair nicely with everything from Manchego cheese to Skittles. The Child’s Play would be a fine way to start Thanksgiving festivities.

Wine World also suggests that you consider the 2016 Manoir du Carra Juliénas Les Bottiè (approximately $20).

Domaine Manoir du Carra, located in the south of Burgundy, in the center of Beaujolais, has been producing wine since the 1850s, and was purchased by Jean Sambardier in 1962. The winery now manages 50 vineyards covering 84 acres, most with 50 to 100 year-old-vines.

The key to this Gamay as an ideal Thanksgiving accompaniment is the soft tannin that the Wine Enthusiast emphasized while awarding 90 points, noting that it is “crisp and structured and offers bright red fruits”. Those bright red fruits will be excellent with any element of the turkey.

Consider serving the Juliénas slightly chilled.

We now turn to our northern friend, Sterling Cellars in Mahopac, New York. Jay Gruber sent a list interesting wines, and I selected three that you might consider.

The 2017 Bedrock Cuvee Katatas Blanc is a $50+ white blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc that Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate awarded 94 points.

Bedrock is just over a decade old, but this Napa based winery already sources its grapes from the finest vineyards and regions of Northern California. However, it is Bedrock’s winemaking pedigree that is most intriguing. Co-Owner and winemaker is Morgan Twain-Peterson, the son of Joel Peterson, the founder of Sonoma’s iconic Ravenswood Winery. Twain-Peterson was raised in the wine industry, and according Bedrock, “was five years old in 1986 when he made his first wine”, a Pinot Noir.

Bedrock sources Semillon from the Monte Rosso Vineyard, and the Wine Advocate suggests that offers “notes of orange marmalade, honeydew melon, jam, quince, white currents and flowers. There is an almost unctuous quality to the texture and super-concentration from these two varieties”. The structure and flavor package that will be an excellent addition to your Thanksgiving table.

You can purchase the second suggestion, a 2017 Stephane Aviron Morgon Cote du Py, for $25.

Sourced from one of Beaujolais most highly regarded terroirs, the sloped vines are biodynamically farmed in volcanic soil. Yields are low, and the grapes produce a highly concentrated flavor package that produces a wine, that according to the Wine Advocate (awarding it 93 points) is “medium to full-bodied, velvety, and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit…with a nicely defined finish”. This would be ideal for the turkey (and sides) course of the Thanksgiving feast.

The third Sterling Cellar recommendation is the 2010 La Rioja Vina Ardanza Reserve Seleccion Especial.

Rated in the mid-90s by virtually every publication, from The Wine Advocate to the Wine Spectator, this $40 Tempranillo, ideal for the main course, is “garnet-red…with a nose of sweet cherries, red currants assembled with notes of black pepper and nutmeg”. It also offers “elegant tannins and a silky finish” (winemaker notes). Enough said…this Tempranillo is certainly worth tracking down.

This post is already longer than I would prefer. However, these wonderful recommendations from New York, South Carolina, and Florida were worthy of more in-depth discussion.

Finally, my preferences…Gruner Veltliner for a white, and Brunello for a red. No specific recommendations, but Sterling Cellars, Accent on Wine, and Chan’s Wine World (and every other worthy retailer) will have excellent options.

Enjoy the hunt…