This post is about a challenge for your palate.
Unfortunately, we rarely discuss white wines in this blog. However, Joy and I recently enjoyed a bottle of Ciro Picariello Irpinia Fiano that needed to be shared. In the process, we were reminded of the many excellent white wines that are not one of the ‘noble white grapes’ (originally Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling), and assumed to be less ‘worthy’. The classification of grapes (both worldwide and in the U.S.), and the impact on attitudes regarding white wines, is certainly a topic for conversation in a future post.
Fiano originates, and is primarily found, in the Campania region of Southern Italy There are also very modest acres planted with the grape in both Australia and the United States. Fiano has likely been around for a very long time. Pliny the Elder, the ancient Roman author, statesman and military leader, and considered to be the first wine critic, is thought to have identified Fiano as a viti apiane, or fruit with juice that attracted bees. The bees suggest the presence of sufficient sugar for fermentation. There is some dispute regarding Pliny’s identification of the Fiano grape, but the ancient reference is too good and requires sharing.
Fiano was identified by name in the 13th century, became a regional favorite, and was then effectively lost due as a result of the 19th century phylloxera crisis. For the next century Fiano largely fell off the wine map both in Campania and its neighborhood. However, late in the 20th the Mastroberardino family, long dedicated to introducing the world to Campania’s grapes/wines, ‘rediscovered’ Fiano. This ‘discovery’ was fortuitous.
The Mastroberardino family has ten generations of winemaking experience and are so intrinsically linked to the region’s culture that they were selected by the Italian government to preserve and manage the viticulture of Pompeii. They are excellent ambassadors for the region’s history, culture, and wines.
The Mastroberardinos are particularly noted for their work with widely distributed versions of Aglianico (a deeply colored and rich red wine). Aglianico has been long revered in Campania and is gaining popularity elsewhere. However, the family recognized the distribution potential of Fiano, embraced the grape, and are now bottling multiple styles of the wine.
Terroir is particularly critical to Fiano. The volcanic soil of the Apennine Mountains and the Mediterranean climate, which often produces ‘flabby’ wines produce wines that are surprisingly fresh. A broader conversation about terroir is still another topic for future posts.
Despite the risk of higher alcohol resulting in ‘flabbiness’, Fiano vines produce small and thick-skinned grapes with relatively low yields. These modest yields have resulted in wines that defy the common perceptions of most Mediterranean climate products. Regional winemakers have created a style that offers excellent balance between acid and fruit.
Look for a well-structured Fiano to be a dry wine that is medium to full bodied with a hint of crisp acidity. Even though the fermentation process is done through stainless steel tanks with a few months of bottle aging, the Fiano can spend a few years in your cellar. As the wine ages, it introduces a honeyed element on the palate that will often extend through a medium finish. There is an excellent balance between acid and fruit.
You will find bottles labeled with both Fiano and Fiano di Avellino. The Fiano di Avellino is a DOCG, vinified following rigorous government standards, and represents the best that Italian vineyards can offer.
However, do not shy away from bottles also simply labeled Fiano. These are generally ‘declassified’ versions of the Fiano di Avellino. A wine that is declassified is often considered by the winemaker to be produced of ‘inferior’ grapes from a respected region. A declassified Burgundy would likely be labeled as a village or regional wine rather than by its vineyard. These are generally excellent. The price is lower, the vintner losses some money, but the consumer can enjoy an excellent wine at a price that will not challenge the wallet.
The same is true of Fiano. A $60 bottle of Fiano di Avellino is not at all unusual. However, you can secure excellent Fiano for a third of that. There are many excellent Fiano bottlings available nationwide for less than $20. Check with your local retailer for their recommendations.
Enjoy this versatile wine with hard cheese, pasta with a white sauce, and white meat meals. That modest acidity and marked freshness makes this a wonderful wine to enjoy on a warm afternoon or sitting by the fireplace on a cooler day. Purchase, chill slightly, and enjoy…this wine can certainly be consumed young.
If you like dry whites (for instance, Chardonnay) …consider a Fiano for a change of pace. And I pledge to post about white wines far more regularly.