I have often mentioned Gruet sparkling wines, generally as an aside, in many posts and newsletter articles over the past many years. However, although it is one of our favorite sparkling producers, Gruet has never been the primary focus of any commentary.

Joy and I first encountered Gruet when visiting our friends Bill and Mary Vogel in Albuquerque, New Mexico. They had relocated to the warmer SW from the snowy and cold NE more than 20 years ago. On a tour of the sites during our first to the area, traveling from Albuquerque to Santa Fe through the Sandia Mountains, and as we passed a nondescript strip mall, I spotted a sign suggesting a winery. A short detour was in order.

The winery was Gruet, the space (for both tasting and winery) was confined, but the staff was friendly, and the sparkling wines were excellent. I shared our impressions with Steve Morrison of Sterling Cellars in New York. Gruet was soon in Sterling Cellar’s sparkling section, and soon after Gruet was a Sterling customer favorite.

For those of you who have not yet tried Gruet…you should. But first, let’s discuss how a French winemaker ends up in New Mexico?

This 275,000-case winery makes sparkling wine in New Mexico, but its origin is Bethon located in the heart of the French Champagne region. The late Gibert Gruet first made wine in 1967 on Bethon land given to him by his winemaker father. It was at Gruet et Fils that Gilbert’s son Laurent, now the winemaker at Gruet, learned the intricate ropes of méthode Champenoise.

European winemakers had started to buy land in California in the early 1980s following the Great Tasting of 1976 in which California wines bested some of the finest French offerings. Gilbert Gruet, who died in 1999, joined that Western exploration. However, Gilbert’s focus was New Mexico. The climate was excellent, and the soil was terrible (excellent for grapes that improve as they struggle to find nutrition). He purchased a vineyard near Truth and Consequences, a town located a couple of hours south of Albuquerque. Laurent and his sister Nathalie (now the company President) were given responsibility for the new venture. In 1989 they released their first sparkling wines. They started with 2,000 cases. Shortly thereafter Joy and I stumbled across their strip mall operation.

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the two primary grapes in Chardonnay thrive in the dry air of New Mexico. The climate is dry and windy. The nights are cool. Pests and rot are minimized. Hot days and chilly nights preserve the acidity that is critical that is critical to sparkling wines.

Gruet uses classic production Champagne methods. Secondary fermentation in the bottle and riddling to eliminate the dead yeast cells. Aging in bottles.

Gruet has expanded his vineyards, including acreage in the Sandia Mountains between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. They also source grapes from California and Washington state.

The key, says Laurent, is price. The sparkling wine market is very competitive. Simply put, “You cannot be too expensive…if you are too expensive, people will buy something else”. With entry level bottles selling for less than $20, you can find Gruet everywhere. And, despite growth they have not sacrificed quality. In 2011 The Wine Spectator listed Gruet’s NV Blanc de Noirs on its Top 100 List.

A couple of years ago (pre-Covid), Joy and I had the opportunity to talk with Laurent Gruet at The South Walton Beaches Wine and Food Festival. He was as approachable as are his wines. He introduced us to his newest style, NV Sauvage.

A Blanc de Blanc (white wine made from white grapes) is light in color, dry in style, and delicate in the mouth. The nose suggests a bright drink with just a touch of citrus. The flavor package offers both green apple and grapefruit. The finish is long. Decanter magazine noted that you may find “buttercream and hints of mushroom” while awarding it 90 points.

When you find Sauvage (unfortunately, not easily in South Carolina) also acquire some oysters or briny fish and enjoy the combination. You should find the Sauvage in the $20 range.

However, even if the limited production Sauvage is not readily available, you should find the full range of other Gruet sparklers virtually everywhere.  Their NV Brut Rosé is a particularly excellent value.

And should you find yourself in either Santa Fe or Albuquerque, Gruet has tasting rooms in both cities. They have clearly left the strip mall behind.