It is not surprising that Randall Graham, the owner-winemaker of Bonny Doon, refers to himself as the product of a “permanent liberal arts” education. It is clear, that while ‘liberal arts’ may have been his area of study as a student at The University of California Santa Cruz, Graham has historically been on the side of the ‘liberal’ spectrum regarding winemaking strategies.

Although Graham was born in Los Angeles (1953), it is his work in Santa Cruz for which he is best known. Following his undergraduate time at UC Santa Cruz, Graham returned home and eventually found work sweeping floors at The Wine Merchant (now a 20,000 square foot retail store in West Los Angeles). Somehow, while sweeping floors, he uncovered a passion for wine that extended beyond consumption. In 1979 Graham enrolled in the Plant Sciences program at The University of California at Davis. It was at UC Davis that Graham began his obsession (particularly regarding Pinot Noir) with wines that at the time would have been considered ‘off the beaten path’.

Graham’s family helped him purchase Santa Cruz Mountains property in the “quaint hamlet of Bonny Doon”. And, the wine legend known as ‘The Rhone Ranger’ was formed. Joined by Bob Lunquist of Qupe Wine Cellars, Fred Cline of Cline Cellars, and Joseph Phelps of Joseph Phelps Winery (and a few others) the ‘Rhone Rangers’ pioneered and encouraged other grower/winemakers to plant Rhone varietals and the group was ultimately instrumental in “popularizing Rhone varietals”. The group was very active throughout the 1980s, and following a quiet 1990s, were reenergized in the late 1990s advocating for the expansion of Syrah as a primary California varietal.

Graham’s original goal was to “replicate Burgundy in California”. However, despite his affinity for Pinot Noir, Graham “realized early on that he would have far more success creating more distinctive and original wines working with Rhone varieties in the Central Coast of California”. The first Le Cigare Volant (1984), a tribute to Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP), was released in 1986. Summerville’s Accent on Wine included the 2012 version of Le Cigare Volant as the inaugural red offering for their newly formed Wine Club.

There are 18 varietals which may be utilized, under 2009 French AOC rules, in the blending of CDP. However, there are 13 traditional varieties (including both red and white grapes) employed in the blend. And, while there are no rules regarding percentages, Grenache dominates most CDP blends. The Rhone region is planted to more than 70% Grenache (Syrah at 10.5% and Mourvedre at 7%). There are just under 4,000 acres of Grenache planted in California. By comparison, there are more than 70,000 acres of Cabernet. Syrah is found on just over 15,000 acres. There are 250,000 acres of Grenache planted in France (second only to Merlot). Spain grows Grenache on 170,000 vineyard acres.

Grenache is a prolific grape. Each acre can potentially produce an average of 10-12 tons of grapes per year. However, older Grenache vines are prized for ‘the depth of flavor’. Older vines generally produce less fruit. Grenache yields in California, however, are generally limited to just two tons per acre (eight tons of fruit per acre is the average yield for wine grapes in California). Two tons of grapes will produce just 120 cases of wine And, while the ratio of low yield to excellent wine is not absolute, many California Grenache growers and winemakers using Grenache subscribe to the lower tonnage mantra.

The 2012 Le Cigare Volant was blended from 39% Mourvedre; 33% Grenache, and 26% Syrah (with a touch of Cinsault). The wine was the product of biodynamic production, and there were only 4,000 cases of this Santa Cruz based wine available.

This deeply colored liquid offers elements of earth on the nose and just a hint of softer red fruit. The palate has pleasant cherry and chocolate tones on the palate. There is “lively acidity” and soft tannins with a flavor package that offers a medium finish.

Current vintages of the Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant generally sells for more than $40. However, Bonny Doon does offer many excellent wines at more ‘budget’ friendly prices. A Proper Claret is priced lower than $15 (and rated more than 90 points by James Suckling), The Vin Gris is priced at less than $12. Bonny Doon wines are available nationwide.

Randall Graham still makes wine ‘his way’. He pioneered screwcaps as a bottle closure and believed it was important for consumers to know what was in the bottle – thus, he supports the listing of ingredients on the label.  He is also a strong proponent of biodynamic processes. I am working on a longer post devoted to new trends on biodynamic winemaking, including Graham’s thoughts on this process.

Graham also argues that everyone, winemakers and consumers, should be aware of the difference between ‘vine de terroir’ – “wine that expresses a sense of place, and ‘vin d’effort’, a wine that expresses the stylistic intention of the winemaker’s will”. Graham does not believe that the winemaker is any “more responsible for making wine than they are responsible for converting sunlight striking the leaves of a grapevine into sugars and more complex flavor components elaborated within the vine”. Graham is clearly a supporter of the winemaking model that argues for great wines being the product of the vineyard.

Regardless of the process employed in getting juice into the bottle, conversations with Randall Graham often include the comment that he makes wines that he enjoys consuming.

So will you…