The past nine months have certainly been difficult for everyone. The relentless trending upward of Covid-19 numbers has taken its toll on our collective psyche, and sadly cost hundreds of thousands of our friends and neighbors their lives.
During those nine months it felt unseemly to extol the quality of, and encourage the purchase of wine and spirits when so many had lost their jobs, had joined the 21st century version of breadlines, or even faced eviction.
However, recently the outlook has changed. Vaccines and therapies are increasingly available, and there is now truly a light at the end of the proverbial tunnel. As we approach a new year it is time to look forward and to consider a return to some sense of normalcy.
Thus, a few suggestions for the early days of 2021.
Angels and Cowboys, 2018, Sonoma County Proprietary Red
Founded by Yoav Gilet, who made his reputation developing the marketing strategy for SKYY Vodka, formed Cannonball wines in 2006 under the Share a Splash corporate name. He launched Angels and Cowboys in 2014. Gilet manages the business and Ondine Chattan, trained in enology at Fresno State, and one of California’s most respected winemakers/consultants, who previously worked at Cline, Ridge and Geyser Peak, and collaborated with founding Cannonball winemaker Dennis Hill, now directs winemaking at Angels and Cowboys.
We first tasted the Angels and Cowboys, Sonoma County Proprietary Red (which is widely available) last fall (the 2017 version) at a tasting hosted by Summerville, South Carolina’s Accent on Wine, and recently (the 2018) at a smaller tasting also hosted by Accent on Wine. We were impressed on both occasions.
With Zinfandel providing a juicy base and depth generated by a Petite Sirah, and Rhone varietals Carignane, Syrah and Grenache, the result is a wine bright and floral on the nose, but with structure that works with both delicate meats and hardy cheese. While aged in French oak, Angels and Cowboys Proprietary Red offers integrated tannins and excellent balance. The fruit is sourced from the volcanic soils of Sonoma’s Alexander Valley as well as from vineyards in both the Russian River and Dry Creek valleys.
Look for hints of dark berry on the nose and spice and minerality on the palate that continue through the lingering finish. There is sufficient tannin to suggest that the 2018 version of the Proprietary Red will age for a few years, it is very ready to enjoy now.
James Suckling awarded the wine a 91 noting that “this is a fun blend with lots of character, delivering ripe fruit, but at the same time some cedar, bark, tea, and vanilla undertones”. You should be able to find Proprietary Red for $20.
Hirsch’s The Horizon American Whiskey
A.H. Hirsch Reserve 16-Year-Old (distilled in 1974) has been considered one of the finest American whiskeys every produced. Distilled in 1974 at Pennsylvania’s historic Schaefferstown Distillery (now known as Michters) located east of Harrisburg, by investment banker A.H. Hirsch, it was the focus of respected whiskey expert, Chuck Cowdery’s, The Best Bourbon You’ll Ever Taste.
There were only 400 barrels of Hirsch Reserve produced, and if you could afford the $3,500 price tag you might find one of the few bottles still available. It is one of the most expensive collectable American whiskeys ever produced.
The original Hirsch ceased operations in the late 1980s, Anchor Distilling (orginally part of Anchor Brewing) was spun off from the brewing operation in 2017-2018 and reconstitued as Hotaling & Co. Hotaling, headquartered in San Francisco, suggests that is a “pioneer in small production spirits, bringing pot-distilled whiskey back to the United States”.
The Hirsch you may find on the shelf (there is still not much available), is distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, and blended from two straight whiskeys with a mash bill containing 75% corn and 21% rye. All but 6% of the whiskey is aged for just over five years. The remainder is aged for just over six years.
Bottled at 92 proof you will find a hint of sweetness, wood, and perfume on the nose. A little pepper, vanilla, and leather emerge on the palate. The leather and pepper continue through the medium finish.
The Hirsch does not meet the meet the flavor profile of most contemporary American whiskey. You will not find heavy elements of sweet spice and honey. Rather than establishing a homogeneous relationship with many other domestic whiskeys, Hirsch has created a unique profile.
Created to be enjoyed neat or on the rocks (not ideal for cocktails requiring a neutral or sweeter base spirit), this $40 Bourbon is worth the search. Distribution is currently limited to California, Texas, Illinois, Massachusetts, Tennessee, New York, Kentucky and Georgia. You may find a retailer in one of these states that will ship. Moreover, the Hirsch people anticipate a wider distribution as they ramp up production.
My good friend, Steve Morrison of Sterling Cellars in Mahopac, New York, was kind enough to bring a bottle when visiting us in the South Carolina Lowcountry a few months ago.
As we welcome the calendar to turn the page to 2021 and the arrival of vaccine everywhere, it seemed appropriate to renew our conversation about wines and spirits.
A toast to better year for all of us.